What to see in Batumi: 11 tips from Milan Bez Mapy

Batumi pleasantly surprised me. It’s a modern city where you get a lot for relatively little money. My top picks are the fish market, the botanical garden, Sameba Church for its view and the seafront promenade at sunset. At the fish market, a restaurant next door cooks the fish you’ve just bought. I’d skip the cable car, as it isn’t really worth it.

Quick factsby Milan Bez Mapy

How I flew

Out with Pegasus from Vienna via Istanbul, back direct from Kutaisi, which is more than two hours from Batumi by car

Where I stayed

At the Alliance Palace by the Alley of Heroes, in the modern district; I got around town by Bolt, which is cheap

Paying

I paid by card almost everywhere and only needed cash for the zipline in the botanical garden

Sameba Church

Only by taxi, up steep hairpin bends; if you’re in shorts, they give you a free sarong outside the church

Not worth it

The cable car, 39 lari (about €9 when I visited), with dirty windows; the view from Sameba Church is better

What is there to see in Batumi? I’d heard a lot about visiting this city in Georgia and had it filed in my head as a second Dubai. I don’t like comparing places that seem to have nothing in common, but there really is something to it here.

When I visited, Batumi was all the rage with tourists. It was popular with investors from Slovakia too, who had decided to buy investment flats here at decent prices. More on that below. Now let’s look at what’s worth seeing in Batumi.

Visiting Batumi: Milan Bez Mapy’s tips and what to watch out for

How to find cheap flights to Batumi

The fastest way to get to Batumi is to fly into the city’s own airport, but there are no direct flights there from our part of Europe. On the way there, I flew from Vienna to Batumi with Pegasus Airlines, changing in Istanbul (Pegasus also flies from Bratislava, but the departure times didn’t suit me). On the way back, I took a direct Wizz Air flight from Kutaisi to Vienna.

Tip from Milan I’d recommend booking your accommodation as early as you can, because rooms in a good location at a fair price go first. Here you’ll find accommodation offers in the area valid today.

You could also try other airlines, such as Turkish Airlines. Just compare the prices. Kutaisi has only one drawback: it’s more than two hours from Batumi by car. Some people won’t mind that much, though, since the direct flight takes only about three hours. These days Wizz Air flies direct from Kutaisi to Bratislava, Budapest and Prague, but no longer to Vienna. Work on a new motorway is in full swing. Most of the stretch between Samtredia and Grigoleti is already open, and the last section is due to be finished in 2027. After that, the drive will be much shorter.

Where to stay in Batumi and how to get around

It doesn’t really matter where you stay in Batumi. The city isn’t big enough for anything to be far away. I stayed at the Alliance Palace by the Alley of Heroes, in the modern district full of colourfully lit skyscrapers. I also quite liked the historic buildings in the centre, though, and staying in one of those might be nice too. Bolt works brilliantly here at ridiculously low prices, so getting around is completely stress-free.

Can you pay by card in Georgia, or do you need cash?

I spent several days in Batumi and never even saw what the local cash looks like. I don’t know about the rest of Georgia, but Batumi is very well set up for tourists. You can pay by card (almost) everywhere without any problem.

The only place where I couldn’t pay by card was the zipline in the botanical garden. I’d still recommend carrying some emergency cash, at least €20 worth of the local currency. As I said, though, I didn’t have any and never missed it.

Things to do in Batumi: Milan Bez Mapy’s picks

1. The fish market and the restaurant where you bring your own fish
2. Batumi Botanical Garden
3. Sameba Church, with a view over the whole city
4. The Batumi cable car (not really worth it)
5. The Ali and Nino statues
6. The Ferris wheel and the city’s modern architecture
7. Piazza Square and Europe Square
8. Batumi Boulevard at sunset
9. Lunapark and the Alley of Heroes in the evening
10. Makhuntseti waterfall and the stone arch bridge
11. Adjarian Wine House, a great winery

The fish market and the restaurant where you bring your own fish

Batumi has one huge advantage: it sits right on the Black Sea coast, so you can get fresh seafood, which I love, whenever and wherever you like. If you want a good meal, I’d head to the local fish market. It works like this: you buy whichever fish you fancy and then take it to a restaurant, where they cook it for you. Quite original, isn’t it?

It’s better value than ordering the same fish off the menu, and you know exactly what you’ve bought. You pay for the cooking according to the weight of the fish. We did exactly that and sat down at Blue Wave, a restaurant right on the shore. You can look out to sea and listen to the waves while you eat. For me, it was a pleasant local experience in an authentic setting.

Batumi Botanical Garden

From the centre, take a Bolt to the botanical garden. I’m sure you’ll like it. Fair warning, though: it’s enormous, so don’t try to see all of it. I picked a few nice spots with a view, took some photos, stopped to smell the hydrangeas and carried on with my trip.

• TIP: You can pay for admission to the botanical garden by card with no trouble at all. The zipline in the grounds, however, is cash only, so it’s worth carrying a little cash for situations like this.

Sameba Church, with a view over the whole city

The only way to get to Sameba Church is by taxi, and I still feel sorry for the driver who took me there. I’ve never seen a worse road: nothing but hairpin bends, sharp corners, oncoming cars and reversing back down the hill. I was sweating on his behalf. Still, the destination, Sameba Church, is worth every penny, especially as Bolt taxis are so cheap here.

Sameba is a relatively new building, completed in 2013. The cathedral’s architecture combines traditional Georgian Orthodox elements with modern ones. It has a tall tower and a dome that you can see from many parts of Batumi. Inside, it’s richly decorated with icons, frescoes and religious artefacts that reflect Georgia’s long spiritual and cultural history. But the view is what you come here for.

• TIP: Don’t panic when a local tries to wrap you in a sarong just outside the church. If you’re wearing a skirt or shorts (men too), they’ll give you one free of charge.

The Batumi cable car (not really worth it)

I’d give the Batumi cable car a miss, and I won’t spend many words on it here. When I visited, a return ticket cost about €9 per person (today it’s 39 Georgian lari), and it isn’t worth it. The cable car has dirty windows. If you want decent photos, you have to stick your arm and camera out of the little window.

What’s more, up at the top there’s a snack bar and a restaurant with poor reviews on Google. Even the view isn’t worth it. The one from Sameba Church is better, so for me this cable car is completely pointless. I’d skip it and put the money towards a good lunch in town. My restaurant tips are further down.

The Ali and Nino statues

I love art that makes sense from head to toe. Here, quite literally. The Ali and Nino statues are famous moving sculptures that tell the love story of the two main characters in Kurban Said’s novel Ali and Nino. The story is set during the First World War and the collapse of the Russian Empire.

The statues show Ali, a Muslim boy from Azerbaijan, and Nino, a Christian girl from Georgia. Their story stands for a love that overcomes religious and cultural differences. The statues are designed to move slowly towards each other, merge and then drift apart again. This symbolises the obstacles and twists of fate that separate the lovers and bring them back together.

Ali and Nino have become one of the main symbols of Batumi. They carry deep cultural and emotional meaning and remind you how much love and understanding between cultures and religions matter. Give it the ten minutes and wait for them to come together. In real life, though, they’re smaller than they look in photos.

You’ll find trips and tours in Batumi here:

The Ferris wheel and Batumi’s modern architecture

For another good view of the city’s modern architecture, I’d recommend a ride on the Ferris wheel right opposite the Ali and Nino statues. Over the past few decades the city has changed dramatically and gained several architectural gems. As a former architecture student, I found it a feast for the eyes.

Modern buildings in Batumi worth a look

• The Alphabetic Tower symbolises the Georgian alphabet and Georgian culture. It’s 130 metres tall, built of glass and metal, and topped by a large sphere with an observation deck and a restaurant.
• The Technological University Tower, also known as Batumi Tower, is 200 metres tall. You’ll recognise it by its distinctive design and the Ferris wheel built into one of its upper sections. In the end the university never used it, and today it houses the Le Méridien hotel. The tower has wonderful views of the city and the sea.
• The Radisson Blu Hotel is an elegant glass-fronted building with luxury rooms and panoramic views of the Black Sea. Its modern, sophisticated design adds to the city’s prestige.

Piazza Square and Europe Square

Piazza Square takes its inspiration from Italian squares, but it’s a modern complex that combines traditional and contemporary architecture. It’s lined with cafés, restaurants and hotels and is popular with tourists and locals alike. Europe Square, a short walk away, is also worth a visit.

• TIP: Piazza Square (also called Italia Square) is a nice spot for an evening drink or a stroll, with plenty of bars, wine bars and bistros. I spent a lovely evening here over Georgian wine, watching the locals dance to live music.

Casinos and nightlife in Batumi

Batumi is also very relaxed about casinos and gambling. If you can’t sleep at night, Moon Night Club and 360 Sky Bar are both popular.

Batumi Boulevard at sunset

Batumi Boulevard is one of the city’s best-known and most popular attractions. This seaside boulevard runs along the Black Sea coast. It has plenty of things to do and see and places to relax, for visitors and locals. I don’t think I’ve ever seen so many people out running at sunset, and it was a joy to watch.

The boulevard was laid out at the end of the 19th century and has gradually been extended and modernised. Today it’s a green strip almost 7 km long, with lovely gardens, fountains, sculptures and leisure facilities. From the boulevard you can also get to the Dolphinarium, where visitors can watch the dolphins or swim with them. Nearby you’ll also find Batumi Aquapark and the Lunapark funfair. Lunapark is at its best in the evening, when you can see the colourful skyscrapers by the Alley of Heroes from it.

The Alley of Heroes in the evening

Next to the Alley of Heroes stands a residential and commercial complex that has become one of the best-known symbols of Batumi’s modern development. It’s right by the Black Sea beach and includes several high-rise buildings that dominate the city’s skyline.

It consists of three towers with luxury apartments and beautiful views of the sea and the city. The apartments are popular with tourists and investors for their high standard, modern facilities and attractive location. The complex also contributes to Batumi’s economic growth by attracting international investors and tourists. It has become one of the most sought-after places in Batumi to stay and do business, which helps local tourism and services grow.

Makhuntseti waterfall and the stone arch bridge

Got a car? Take a trip out into the countryside. About three quarters of an hour from the city centre you’ll find Makhuntseti waterfall and a beautiful stone arch bridge that looks medieval. And it doesn’t just look it, it is. The Makhuntseti stone bridge dates from the 12th century and was built without mortar.

It’s a fine example of medieval engineering, with wonderful views of the surrounding countryside and the river below. Nearby, roadside stalls sell nice souvenirs and Georgian honey for much less than you’d pay in Batumi.

This impressive waterfall, about 50 metres high, is surrounded by lush greenery and shows off the natural beauty of the area. You do need to time your visit for when it carries the most water, though. Getting to the waterfall is fairly easy, thanks to well-maintained roads and paths.

Adjarian Wine House, a great winery

Adjarian Wine House is a well-known winery. Georgia is one of the oldest wine regions in the world: people have been making wine here for more than 8,000 years. Adjarian Wine House plays an important part in preserving and promoting this heritage. A visit includes a tour of the vineyards, where you can learn about the grape varieties grown in the region and the traditional winemaking methods still followed here.

• TIP: One of the main draws is the wine tasting, where you can try different Georgian wines. These include wines made by the traditional qvevri method, which ferments and ages the wine in large clay vessels buried in the ground. This ancient technique gives the wine the distinctive taste and aroma typical of Georgian wines.

I really liked it here, but go easy on the food. Georgians are very generous, and I nearly burst. Literally.

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Where are the best beaches in Batumi?

• Batumi Beach
• Sarpi Beach
• Kvariati Beach
• Gonio Beach

Batumi has several city beaches, but they didn’t really grab me. They’re fine for lying under a parasol and relaxing, but I like to look for something more natural. The main city beach runs the whole length of the boulevard and is very popular with tourists and locals. It’s covered in small pebbles and has plenty of facilities, including sunloungers, parasols, bars and restaurants.

Sarpi Beach is more interesting, though. It’s about 20 km south of Batumi, near the Turkish border. Sarpi Beach is known for its clean water and lovely setting. Rocky cliffs and lush greenery surround it and give it a wild, natural look. It’s ideal if you’re after somewhere quieter, away from the busy city.

Kvariati Beach is just a few kilometres south of Batumi. Divers like it for its clear water and marine life. It has a mix of sand and pebbles, beach facilities, restaurants and cafés, and it’s also a great place for beach sports and water activities. Gonio Beach is ideal for family days out and relaxing. Besides the beach, you can visit the historic Gonio Fortress nearby, which offers an interesting glimpse into the region’s history.

Mtsvane Kontskhi (Green Cape) is a beach resort north of Batumi, known for its beautiful scenery and its botanical garden. The beach is covered in small pebbles and has lovely views of the surrounding countryside.

What to eat in Georgia

Georgian food could fill a chapter of its own. Its blend of European and Asian influences creates dishes that are distinctive and delicious. Here are some of the best-known ones.

My absolute favourites from Georgian cuisine are:

• Khinkali, traditional Georgian dumplings filled with minced meat (usually beef or pork), onion, garlic and spices. They’re served with black pepper and eaten with your hands: you suck out the broth first and then eat the whole dumpling.
• Churchkhela is a traditional sweet made from nuts threaded on a string, dipped in grape juice thickened with flour and left to dry. I couldn’t get enough of it. You can buy it in some grocery shops or from street food stalls.
• Khachapuri is considered Georgia’s national dish. It’s a cheese bread with many regional variations. The best known is Adjarian khachapuri, shaped like a boat and filled with cheese, butter and egg. Send help.

Other dishes worth trying include lobio, a bean dish cooked with various herbs and spices. It can be served hot or cold, often with fresh coriander and walnuts. Badrijani are slices of aubergine filled with a paste of ground walnuts, garlic and herbs, a popular starter or side dish.

Mtsvadi is Georgian shashlik: meat marinated in herbs and spices and grilled over an open fire. It comes with fresh vegetables and bread. Pkhali is made from various vegetables, such as spinach, beetroot or cabbage, chopped and mixed with walnut paste, garlic and herbs. It’s often topped with pomegranate seeds.

Kharcho is a thick soup of beef, rice, walnuts and plums, seasoned with plenty of spices and herbs and often served with bread.

Where to eat in Batumi: my restaurant tips

• Blue Wave restaurant: they’ll cook the fish you buy at the market next door. It’s a really great experience, as the restaurant is right on the seafront.
• Sazandari: a great local restaurant serving traditional Georgian food. I’d recommend it.
• Restaurant Ambassadori: I didn’t manage to go, but it was on my list. Slovaks who had been to Batumi before and eaten well there recommended it to me. It’s in a nice setting and has great reviews on Google.
• The Adjarian Wine House winery is a story in itself. You need a car or a taxi to get there, but combining traditional Georgian food with a wine tasting in this setting was a great idea.

Also worth reading: What to eat in Georgia? Everything, Georgian food is the best.

Batumi pleasantly surprised me. I’d been to Georgia before, but I thought of it as a country you go to for hiking in the mountains. Batumi is a modern city where your money goes a long way. Whether you’re coming on holiday or to buy a flat, it’s becoming a much sought-after destination on the world map. Happy travels!

Milan