What to see in Cefalù, Sicily: Milan Bez Mapy’s tips

Cefalù makes an ideal day trip from Palermo, and by train it’s a breeze. My highlight was the climb up the Rocca, the rock above the town, where the view from the castle is ten out of ten. The famous Porta Pescara gate, on the other hand, let me down, because absolutely everyone stops there for a photo.

Quick factsby Milan Bez Mapy

Train from Palermo

From Palermo Centrale in about an hour, €7.10 one way

Tickets

Trenitalia app, no registration needed

Rocca

Admission €5, by card or with an exact €5 note

Hike

About 45 minutes, mostly unshaded, sturdy shoes needed

How long

One day is enough

What to see in Cefalù? I’m standing on the walls high above the town, the wind is blowing, and below me lie the rooftops of the old town and a sandy beach. The whole of Cefalù grew up beneath this rock. Its stone was quarried for the paving and the churches, and according to one theory the town even takes its name from it: kephalé is Greek for head. So this is where I started my day. Only afterwards did I head down into the lanes, to the sea and to lunch.

How to get from Palermo to Cefalù by train

I took the train to Cefalù from Palermo Centrale station. The ticket cost €7.10 one way and the journey took about an hour. As before, I bought it in the Trenitalia app without registering and boarded with the QR code. The girl in front of me had a paper ticket, and the price on it was exactly the same.

I caught an early train to get as much time in Cefalù as possible. It was still full, as this is probably the most popular day trip from Palermo. I was lucky to get a seat, because I wouldn’t have wanted to stand for a whole hour. So an early train pays off in another way too: you’re more likely to sit down.

I have to hand it to Sicily’s trains. I took them several times and didn’t have a single bad experience. They left on time, practically to the minute. I came with my preconceptions, but in my experience the trains here are reliable.

How much time do you need in Cefalù?

For me, a day trip from Palermo was plenty. I arrived by train in the morning and went back in the afternoon. I’d say most people come here for just the day. That’s why I think it could be worth staying on for the sunset and the night, once the day-trippers have gone.

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Things to do in Cefalù: Milan Bez Mapy’s picks

Rocca di Cefalù: the hike to the castle above the town

I started the day with the hardest part, the climb up the Rocca. It’s a limestone crag about 268 metres high, with the remains of a medieval castle on top. You’ll see its stone all over town, from the paving to the church façades, and locals call it lumachella. From the station it’s about 10 to 15 minutes on foot to the entrance by Salita Saraceni.

I went up in the morning, before it got too hot. There are two ticket machines at the entrance, and admission is €5. You can pay by card or in cash, but cash means exactly one €5 note.

It’s a good hike, if a bit hard on the legs. The path is well built but goes over rock, so you’ll want sturdy shoes and at least a basic level of fitness. The first stretch is under trees, but after that I spent roughly 80 per cent of the route walking on rock with no shade. A hat and sun cream are essential here. I went in autumn, when it was sunny and windy, so it was pleasant. Last summer I was in Malta, and I wouldn’t put myself through heat like that again.

I went up to the castle first, and the views from there are superb. On the way down I walked along the walls, with the whole old town spread out below me. The views are hugely photogenic, and I’m really glad I made the climb. I also passed a stone building that reminded me of a monastery. It was the so-called Tempio di Diana (Temple of Diana), a megalithic structure of huge stone blocks right on the route.

The whole thing took me about 45 minutes. I did the Rocca first thing, and I’d plan it the same way again. It takes a fair amount of time and energy, so the rest of my day could be easy-going: views and restaurants.

The beach in Cefalù, right in the historic centre

From the top I could see that Cefalù has a sandy beach right next to the historic centre. Quite a few people were swimming. The waves were on the big side, probably because of the wind, but it looked easy to get into the water. The beach was a lovely surprise.

Lavatoio medievale, the medieval washhouse in Cefalù

Walking through town, I stopped at the medieval washhouse on Via Vittorio Emanuele. It’s a stop of barely a minute, but it’s interesting to see how the system worked. Lava-stone steps lead down to the basins, with the Cefalino river running through them. Women used to do their washing here, and legend has it that the river is formed by the tears of an unhappy nymph.

The original washhouse stood closer to the sea, but it was demolished in 1514. Locals still came here to do their washing in the 20th century, and the washhouse was restored in 1991. Entry is free.

Porta Pescara in Cefalù: is the famous gate worth it?

Next I went to the well-known Porta Pescara gate. It’s the only one of the town’s four gates still standing, and its arch opens straight onto the beach and its fishing boats. For me, though, it was the biggest disappointment of the day. It was packed, and everyone was taking photos. Early in the morning, with nobody around, it could make a lovely shot.

Where to eat in Cefalù

When hunger struck, I went to Deja Vu, a restaurant with very good Google reviews. In person it didn’t strike me as authentic, with photos of the dishes stuck on the front. The spaghetti carbonara was excellent, but the octopus didn’t wow me. I wouldn’t go back.

There’s no shortage of restaurants in Cefalù. So next time I’d choose by atmosphere rather than by Google. I’d look for a place that feels right, check who’s eating there and ideally get a nice view of the beach.

What I didn’t have time for in Cefalù

I also wanted to visit the cathedral and see the harbour, but I ran out of time. Work on the cathedral began in 1131 on the orders of King Roger II, and it has been on the UNESCO World Heritage List since 2015. Since I didn’t go inside, I can’t write about it from experience.

My Cefalù itinerary and prices at a glance

1. An early morning train from Palermo Centrale: about an hour, €7.10 one way
2. Rocca di Cefalù: first thing in the morning, about 45 minutes, admission €5
3. The beach and a stroll through the historic centre
4. Lavatoio medievale: a few minutes, free
5. Porta Pescara: morning is best for a photo without people
6. Lunch at a restaurant that wins you over with its atmosphere
7. An afternoon train back to Palermo, or stay on for the sunset

What to see in Palermo, and more tips for Sicily

The day before, I spent a whole day exploring Palermo on foot. I’ve written about what to see in Palermo in a day, with prices and street food tips. If you’d like to see western Sicily too, read about what to see in Trapani and how to get to the Egadi Islands.

Happy travels!