To me, Montenegro is one of the least discovered countries in Europe, a place where the mountains come right down to the sea. On one trip you can fit in Kotor, a beach in Budva and kayaking on Lake Skadar. I’d recommend a car, because the country is small and the most beautiful places lie between the towns.
- How many days
- The country is small, so a week is enough for the sea, the mountains and the lakes
- From the airport
- At the time of my visit there was no public transport, Bolt or Uber in Podgorica, so I arranged a transfer in advance
- Where I stayed
- Hotel Moskva in Budva for the whole trip, with day trips around the country from there
- Driving around
- The roads are good and mostly toll-free; I only paid on a few stretches, such as the Sozina tunnel
- Watch out for
- EU roaming doesn’t apply here; at the time of my trip Air Montenegro sold cheap SIM cards on board
- What I liked most
- Herceg Novi; on the way, the Lepetane to Kamenari ferry cuts about 40 km off the drive around the bay
Contents4 chaptersHideShow
- 01How to get to Montenegro
- Do I need a passport for Montenegro, or is an ID card enough?
- Why is Montenegro called Montenegro?
- Driving in Montenegro and the Adriatic Highway
- Where to stay in Montenegro
- Roaming in Montenegro and the cost of mobile data
- 02Things to do in Montenegro: Milan Bez Mapy’s picks
- Budva and Sveti Stefan
- Bar and the oldest olive tree in the Balkans
- Lake Skadar and kayaking in the national park
- Herceg Novi, my favourite town in Montenegro
- Kotor, Risan and the road around the Bay of Kotor
- Cetinje and Lipa Cave
- 03What to see in Podgorica, the capital of Montenegro
- 04Is Montenegro worth visiting?
What to see in Montenegro? Montenegro was one of my biggest pleasant surprises in Europe. It’s also small enough to see in a week.
Among Slovaks, Montenegro still lives in Croatia’s shadow, and I don’t think it deserves to. Prices are lower, the crowds are smaller and the flight from Bratislava takes under an hour and a half.
Tip from Milan I’d recommend booking your accommodation as early as you can, because rooms in a good location at a fair price go first. Here you’ll find accommodation offers in the area valid today.
How to get to Montenegro
Wizz Air flies from Bratislava to Podgorica (from May to October in 2026). Air Montenegro also runs a seasonal service (once a week from June to September in 2026). I first flew here for the launch of the Air Montenegro route in June 2023. I wrote this article then, in collaboration with Bratislava Airport and Air Montenegro. At the time of my trip, the cheapest Air Montenegro tickets were on the airline’s own website.
- Tip from Milan At the time of my visit there was no public transport from Podgorica airport, and neither Bolt nor Uber operated there. I arranged my transfer in advance. If Podgorica feels too far from the sea, look at flights to Tivat too: it’s right on the Bay of Kotor.
Do I need a passport for Montenegro, or is an ID card enough?
For a shorter stay my Slovak ID card was enough. That applies to stays of up to 30 days; for anything longer you’ll need a passport. The document must be valid for at least three months after you leave the country. I’d assumed a passport was compulsory, but I was wrong. Rules can change, though, so before every trip I check the entry requirements on the Slovak Ministry of Foreign Affairs website. It has a clear overview for every country.
Why is Montenegro called Montenegro?
The most common explanation is simple. The mountains, especially the Lovćen massif, are covered in dense, dark forests that look almost black from a distance. Hence the Italian name Montenegro and the local Crna Gora, both meaning ‘black mountain’. Looking at those mountains from the coast, I could see why.
Driving in Montenegro and the Adriatic Highway
I was surprised by how good the roads are. The Adriatic Highway (Jadranska magistrala) runs along the coast and links the countries on the Adriatic Sea. Buses run between the towns, but they won’t get you to the more remote places. That’s why I recommend a car. Most roads are toll-free; I only paid on a few stretches, such as the motorway from Podgorica heading north and the Sozina tunnel.
Mountain roads are a different story, though. They’re often narrow and steep. The serpentine road from Kotor up towards Lovćen, for example, has 25 hairpin bends, and in places two cars can barely pass. On roads like these, a smaller car and full insurance with no excess make sense. I compare prices on Discover Cars, where I can see offers from several rental companies at once. I explain how to find a cheap car and what to watch out for with insurance in my article on hiring a car on holiday.
If you were planning to hitchhike, I’m sorry to disappoint you. The locals told me hardly anyone picks up hitchhikers here.
Where to stay in Montenegro
Budva is the most popular town with visitors. I stayed at Hotel Moskva in Budva for the whole trip and did day trips around the country from there. Budva is close to everything, including Kotor and Bar.

Roaming in Montenegro and the cost of mobile data
Montenegro uses the euro, but it isn’t in the European Union. That means EU roaming doesn’t apply here, and leaving your mobile data on could land you with a hefty bill. At the time of my trip, Air Montenegro was selling Telekom tourist SIM cards on board. They came with plenty of data for a few euros. Otherwise an eSIM is worth having; I explain how it works in my Airalo review. With the code MILAN1877 you get a discount on your first Airalo eSIM.
Here are some tours and day trips around Montenegro:
Things to do in Montenegro: Milan Bez Mapy’s picks
Budva and Sveti Stefan
Budva is the most touristy town in Montenegro, mainly because of its beaches. What I liked most was the walled old town and the statue of a ballerina, which has become the symbol of Budva. The narrow streets have shops selling olive oil and lavender. Head up onto the walls too and look out for the small arrow slits. In places the old town reminded me of Dubrovnik, only with fewer people.
A short way from Budva, the islet of Sveti Stefan is joined to the mainland by a narrow isthmus. It’s one of the most photographed views in the country. Budva is a hotspot, though, and in summer it gets really crowded. If you’re after quieter places, read on.

The best beaches in and around Budva
- Hawaii Beach on Sveti Nikola island, with frequent boats from central Budva in season
- Mogren Beach, a popular town beach
- Pizana Beach: I didn’t like it, but it has a nice view of the town centre
- Ričardova glava, a beach by day and a restaurant in the evening
- Kamenovo, with very clear water
- Čanj, a long, quieter beach
- Miločer, near Sveti Stefan
- Ploče, small and private, and one of the most beautiful according to my local guide
Kamenovo has a mix of pebbles and coarse sand, which makes the water incredibly clear. It was so clean that I went straight off to buy a snorkel. The beach is split into a private and a public section. You need to book sunbeds, and parking is a bit of a problem. Čanj, on the other hand, felt less crowded. The beach is longer and gets the sun until sunset. The waiter from the bar even brought my drink over to my sunbed.
- Tip from Milan My friend Janka Travelhacker covers the beaches in far more detail in her article on where to go to the seaside in Montenegro (in Slovak).
Nightlife in Budva and jet skiing
To be honest, I didn’t go to a single party in Budva. My local guide Miloš told me, though, that the most popular clubs are Casper Bar, Top Hill, Perla and Omnia. I’d go to Casper, because it’s right in the old town.
What I did try was jet skiing. There are several hire stands by Slovenska plaža beach in Budva. I reached a top speed of 60 km/h, after which the waves made me too nervous to go any faster.

Bar and the oldest olive tree in the Balkans
Bar is a port town in the south of the country, and ferries used to sail from here to Bari in Italy. The route didn’t run in summer 2026, though, so check it before you travel. On the promenade by the port is the palace of King Nikola, who ruled Montenegro for 58 years. If architecture isn’t really your thing, have a coffee at the Knjaževa bašta café in the park. It was once the king’s private restaurant, and the furnishings are still original.

Stari Bar, the old town of Bar, lies a little way inland, inside walls whose oldest parts date from the early Middle Ages. Tickets for the paid section aren’t expensive, and the walls give the best view of the surroundings, all the way to the sea. I had my coffee at Konoba Kula, but there are so many cafés that you can pick whichever you like.
Nearby is Stara maslina (the Old Olive Tree), estimated to be more than 2,000 years old and still bearing olives. People used to meet beside it to settle disputes. Legend has it that if you walk around it three times, you’ll bring yourself health and luck. I did, and I’ll report back on the results in a few years.

Lake Skadar and kayaking in the national park
Lake Skadar is the largest lake in the Balkans, and the border between Montenegro and Albania runs right through it. It lies within one of the country’s five national parks and is home to a great many birds and fish. I set off by kayak from the village of Virpazar, where boat trips on the lake also start.
I ate at the Badanj restaurant right next to the tourist centre. I only ordered chicken breast in mushroom sauce, but the size of the portion floored me, and the taste even more so.

Herceg Novi, my favourite town in Montenegro
I’ll be honest: of everywhere in Montenegro, I liked Herceg Novi best. It’s called the town of steps because it’s built on a hillside. Visit the Kanli Kula fortress, a former prison that is now an amphitheatre with a view and hosts concerts in summer. Down by the sea, a long promenade is lined with bars, cafés and boats offering trips. You’ll find all my tips in my article on what to see in Herceg Novi.
On the way here I took the car ferry between Lepetane and Kamenari. It cuts about 40 kilometres off the drive around the Bay of Kotor. In season it runs almost non-stop, and I paid a few euros for the car. On the way back I drove the long way round the bay, and the view is worth it.
- Tip from Milan In the village of Kameno I had a traditional Montenegrin home-cooked lunch, which Svetlana made for me in her own garden. You’ll find more information here.
Kotor, Risan and the road around the Bay of Kotor
The Bay of Kotor is one of the most beautiful places I’ve seen on the Adriatic. I’d drive all the way round it on the coast road, with a stop in the small town of Risan. Kotor is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and cruise ships call here too. If you have the energy, climb the town walls, which stretch high above the town. What intrigued me most, though, was Cats Square (Trg od mačaka). Go and see for yourself; I’m not going to spoil what you’ll find there.
Cetinje and Lipa Cave
Cetinje is the former capital of Montenegro and the seat of the Petrović-Njegoš dynasty. The town has the National Museum, Cetinje Monastery and historic palaces. Just outside town is Lipa Cave, which the guides say was discovered thanks to a dog. It was the first cave in Montenegro to open to tourists. What surprised me most was the bar inside the cave, where they sometimes hold tastings of wine or rakija, the local fruit brandy.

What to see in Podgorica, the capital of Montenegro
I only saw Podgorica briefly: the heavens opened, and the only thing to do was sit it out in a restaurant. At least I discovered a good place to eat, the Pod Volat restaurant. If you’re luckier with the weather, see Independence Square, the Cathedral of the Resurrection of Christ, the old Stara Varoš quarter and the modern Millennium Bridge over the Morača river.
Is Montenegro worth visiting?
Definitely, if you ask me. Montenegro is compact, and in a few days you get the sea, mountains, lakes and old towns. I can picture a Balkan road trip in a hire car, with a few days here for the sea and some hiking. Thank you to Bratislava Airport, Air Montenegro, Go Montenegro Travel and the Slovak Embassy in Podgorica for the invitation.
Happy travels!
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