The Chmaroš Viaduct (Chmarošský viadukt) near Telgárt is worth a stop if you’re driving through eastern Slovakia. The stone railway bridge looks every bit as impressive in real life as it does in photos. I stopped there on my way from Kežmarok to Bratislava, and I’d also recommend experiencing it from the train.
- Parking
- I parked by the Apartmány Telgárt holiday apartments, about three minutes’ walk away; don’t park by the road, cars go fast there
- Watch out for
- Fines; the viaduct is in the Low Tatras National Park and you may only walk on marked trails, not across the meadow
- Without a car
- From the centre of Telgárt it’s about half an hour’s walk to the viaduct
- By train over the viaduct
- From the Telgárt penzión stop to Dobšinská Ľadová Jaskyňa, a 12-minute ride
- My tip
- You’ll enjoy it more from below, so time your walk for a train to pass over your head
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I wrote this article in 2018. Prices, opening hours and connections may have changed since then, so check them before you go.
I’d never even heard of the Chmaroš Viaduct until one day I saw it on Instagram and thought: OMG, this can’t be in Slovakia. I was really surprised to find out that it’s out in the east of the country, right next to Telgárt.
Tip from Milan I’d recommend booking your accommodation as early as you can, because rooms in a good location at a fair price go first. Here you’ll find accommodation offers in the area valid today.
The Chmaroš Viaduct, known as the stone bridge in Telgárt
When I sent a photo of it to my brother, he asked, ‘Are you in England?’ No, Tomino, this is right here at home. This stone bridge near Telgárt is the Chmaroš Viaduct. Not long ago I was driving home from Kežmarok to Bratislava, and when I asked Google, it told me the viaduct was ‘almost’ on the way. So I decided to stop and see whether it looks as majestic in real life as it does in all the photos on the internets. Judge for yourself.
During my visit (a Monday afternoon) I came across two groups of hikers, which told me it’s quite a popular stop on a hike. At the weekend it must get far busier. Funny, because I’d had it down as one of Slovakia’s lesser-known sights.
What is the Chmaroš (Telgárt) Viaduct?
What is the Chmaroš Viaduct? It’s a stone railway bridge near Telgárt, in Horehronie, the upper Hron valley. It has nine arches and dates from 1936. At 113.5 metres long and 18 metres high, it spans the Gregorova dolina valley. In my view it’s one of the most photogenic structures in Slovakia. It takes its name from the Chmaroška brook, which flows underneath it.
Where is the Chmaroš Viaduct? It stands a short way from the source of the Hron river, just past Telgárt. Here are the coordinates: 48°51’17.6″N 20°12’15.4″E. You really can’t miss it, and you get a perfect view of it from the road. You’d notice it even if you were only driving past with no plans to stop. There are signs for the Chmaroš Viaduct all along the road, and they lead you right to it.
Where to park near the Chmaroš Viaduct in Telgárt
What about parking? The Apartmány Telgárt holiday apartments are a short way from the Chmaroš Viaduct. I parked close to them, at these coordinates: 48°51’05.4″N 20°12’05.8″E. From there it’s about a three-minute walk to the viaduct. I wouldn’t park by the road: cars go quite fast there, and there are tractors too, ploughing the field right next to the viaduct.
A word of warning: the viaduct lies in the Low Tatras National Park (Národný park Nízke Tatry). According to the park authority, in this part of the park you may only use marked hiking and cycling trails. Walking to the viaduct on an unmarked path across the meadow can get you a fine, so check the current trail markings before you go.
If you don’t have a car, head for Telgárt. From the centre of the village it’s about half an hour on foot to the viaduct, which makes for a pleasant walk.
I searched online for more information about the viaduct, but sadly every site says the same thing. We may not know much about the Chmaroš Viaduct, but it’s still a superb structure to admire on a trip around Slovakia.
I tried to find out online which trains cross the viaduct, and discovered that it’s part of line 173 from Červená Skala to Margecany. I also read that apart from the regular services, special heritage trains occasionally run here and go right over the viaduct. This stone bridge in Telgárt is one of a kind in Slovakia, and just like the treetop walk (Chodník korunami stromov), it was something I simply had to come and see for myself.
Crossing the Chmaroš Viaduct by train
So if you want to ride over the Chmaroš Viaduct, board the train in Telgárt (at the Telgárt penzión stop) and get off at Dobšinská Ľadová Jaskyňa, the station for the Dobšiná Ice Cave. The journey takes just 12 minutes and the ticket is cheap; check the current fare on the website of ZSSK, the Slovak state railway. Personally, though, I think you’ll enjoy the view of the Chmaroš Viaduct far more if you walk right underneath it and time it so that a train passes over your head.
Watch this video: at exactly 10 minutes 38 seconds in, the train crosses the Chmaroš Viaduct (the video calls it the Telgárt Viaduct), seen from the driver’s cab:
A hiking trail runs right past the viaduct and also goes through the centre of Telgárt. As you can see in the photo below, though, there’s another little path right under the viaduct, and I have no idea where that one leads. At the bottom of the picture you get a great view of the Telgárt loop (Telgártska slučka), the railway loop the viaduct is part of.
Why was the Chmaroš Viaduct built?
So why is the viaduct here at all? There’s a simple explanation. Around 1930, rail links across Slovakia were not good enough, and the search was on for new options. The sinister plan behind it all: better links between eastern Slovakia and Moravia.
One of the many projects was the railway from Červená Skala to the village of Margecany. With so many mountains and hills around Telgárt, the line needed the Chmaroš Viaduct. The Telgárt tunnel (Telgártsky tunel) is here too. Work on the viaduct also uncovered a cave, which was filled in with stone at the time.
I found this crazy video online. Have a look:
A Slovak travel blogger who has been getting Slovaks out of their office chairs since 2013. Author of the book Influencer and founder of the Bez Mapy blog. "Bez Mapy" is Slovak for "without a map".
Leave it in a comment. It will help others who are planning a trip here too.
