Visiting Japan for the first time: where to go, what to see and a 10-day itinerary

I’d recommend Japan even to people who don’t have it on their list: my first visit was a 10 out of 10. My ten-day itinerary starts in Tokyo and also takes in a trip to Hakone and Takaragawa Onsen. Before you go, it pays to read up on the trains, on paying and on local rules, such as the one about tattoos.

Quick factsby Milan Bez Mapy

Suica card

Get one at the airport as soon as you land; it pays for public transport and in shops, and on an iPhone you add it to Apple Wallet

JR Pass

Not worth it for me, single tickets worked out cheaper; Google Maps shows train fares

Paying

Carry a physical card and cash worth at least €50 to €100; I often couldn’t pay by phone

Watch out for

Tattoos; I wasn’t allowed into the spa at the APA hotel in Tokyo, so check the onsen in advance

Takaragawa Onsen

They let you in with tattoos; shinkansen to Jomo-Kogen, then the free hotel bus; one night is enough

Tokyo

At least two days, ideally three; on a first visit, stay in Shibuya or Shinjuku

Visiting Japan for the first time? So was I, and I’ll be completely honest with you: this country was never on my travel wish list. I probably wouldn’t have gone at all if a very good friend hadn’t got in touch. She and her husband were travelling around Japan for a month, she wrote, and I could join them. So I tagged along for ten days, and here are my tips and my itinerary in case your first trip to Japan is coming up.

Tip from Milan I’d recommend booking your accommodation as early as you can, because rooms in a good location at a fair price go first. Here you’ll find accommodation offers in the area valid today.

Visiting Japan for the first time: practical tips on flights, accommodation and trains

Expect a lot from Japan, in every sense. It’s a long time since a country made such an intense impression on me: the culture and customs, the punctuality, the politeness and consideration for others, the food, and how many vegetables people eat. And don’t be fooled: Japanese cuisine is much more than sushi. Read on.

Flights to Japan: what is a good price?

When is the best time to visit Japan?

The best time to travel to Japan is spring, from March to May, if you want to see the cherry blossom and enjoy pleasant weather. Summer, from June to August, is good for festivals, but the humidity can make it hard going. I’d recommend autumn, from September to November, if you want autumn colours and cooler temperatures.

Winter in Japan is cold, so it’s really one for skiers. The country lies in the same climate zone as Slovakia, with four seasons and similar temperatures. So the weather won’t surprise you on your first visit: it isn’t very different from Slovakia’s.

Visas for Japan: Slovaks and other EU passport holders

Because we hold European Union passports, we Slovaks don’t need a visa for Japan. You just get on the plane with a return ticket and go. As a tourist, you can stay in Japan for up to 90 days.

Guided tours and day trips in Japan

How to get around Japan and where to find accommodation

We all know that when it comes to transport, Japan is in a league of its own. As soon as you land, get a Suica card at the railway company’s counter at the airport. It works all over Japan, mainly for paying on public transport and some trains, but in shops too. You won’t get far without it.

• Tip from Milan If you have an iPhone, you can add Suica straight to Apple Wallet and pay by NFC. It’s really handy, because you can top it up directly with Apple Pay. If you have an Android phone, you’ll have to use the physical card and top it up at the machines. If you add a physical card to Apple Wallet, the plastic one stops working and you can throw it away.

I always booked my accommodation on Booking and never had a problem. Once I even booked a place in Tokyo the day before and still found a great one at a good price.

How to get around Japan by shinkansen (bullet train)

For longer distances you’ll probably use the shinkansen, Japan’s high-speed bullet train lines, where trains reach up to 320 km/h. They’re a better choice than flying, even if the fare often works out about the same. To this day I haven’t worked out how to buy a shinkansen ticket online, so I always bought mine in advance at the ticket office.

If you’re planning to travel at weekends or on public holidays, though, I’d recommend buying your ticket at least a day ahead. For an evening train, that morning is fine. These trains leave exactly on time, to the second.

• Tip from Milan If you want to pay a little less for the shinkansen, buy a ticket without a seat reservation. There are special unreserved carriages for this, but you risk standing for the whole journey. I took the chance only once, on a shorter route on a weekday, outside the rush hour.

Notice how the staff always bow to the passengers as they walk through the carriages. It’s a sign of respect and a thank-you for buying a ticket and giving them work. If you’re planning to travel a lot, consider buying a JR Pass. So what is it?

Mobile data in Japan and an eSIM tip

As you might have guessed, EU roaming doesn’t work in Japan. I have a handy trick for that: I use Airalo, an app for buying eSIMs abroad. It isn’t flawless, so I’ve written a review of Airalo with its pros and cons, plus a discount code in case you decide to try it. With the code MILAN1877 you get a discount on your first Airalo eSIM. Have a read.

When the JR Pass is worth it, and when it isn’t

The JR Pass is an unlimited travel pass for trains, some buses and ferries across Japan. Its price has gone up recently, though, so it isn’t such good value any more. In 2026 the seven-day pass costs ¥50,000 on the official website (¥53,000 through overseas agents). So I’d recommend planning your itinerary in advance, adding up what individual train tickets would cost and comparing that with the price of the JR Pass.

How to check the price of a shinkansen ticket in advance

How do you find out the price? When you plan a route in Japan, Google Maps shows the fares too. I didn’t buy a JR Pass, because individual tickets worked out cheaper for me.

• Tip from Milan If you have a JR Pass, you need to reserve your shinkansen seats in advance. You have to buy the JR Pass in advance, for example from the reseller JRPass.com, or directly on the official website, japanrailpass.net. I’d recommend booking your JR Pass at least two weeks before your trip to Japan. On the official website you set the start date when you buy it, up to a month ahead, and you can reserve seats there before you even land.

Is it better to pay by card or in cash in Japan, and where can you change money?

Good question. In Japan it’s much like in Slovakia: in bigger cities you can pay by card, in smaller places you’ll need cash. Even in Tokyo, though, I came across restaurants that were cash only. I’d recommend withdrawing yen from a cash machine, at least €50 to €100 worth, for emergencies. If you don’t have a Suica card, you pay cash on the buses in some cities, and you need the exact fare.

The Tokyo metro is easiest with a Suica card, although in 2026 you can also just tap a contactless bank card. Go for this trio, Suica card + bank card + some emergency cash, and you’ll be absolutely fine.

• Tip from Milan Carry a physical card. Seven times out of ten I couldn’t pay by tapping my phone or watch and had to insert my physical card. Luckily I found a few places where tapping worked, but paying by phone still isn’t very common in Japan.

Is Japan expensive? What prices to expect

Let me start by saying that everyone has a different idea of ‘expensive’. When I visited, the yen had a great exchange rate and prices were lower than at home. In general I don’t consider Japan an expensive country, except for the shinkansen trips. I could usually eat in a decent restaurant for €10.

What to watch out for in Japan: 10 things not to do

• In Japan people don’t use street bins, and they sort their rubbish. They carry it home in their bags. Seriously.
• It’s rude to eat in the street or to blow your nose into a tissue. Plenty of people ignore this one, though, so go ahead and blow your nose.
• In Japan you don’t tip. Ever. It’s considered rude.
• Slurping your soup is polite and means you’re enjoying it.
• Restaurants are often unwilling to split the bill. One table, one bill.
• Some carriages on the Tokyo metro are for women only. Watch the signs.
• In Japan there are instructions and a sign for everything. Sometimes I feel the country would grind to a halt if signs didn’t tell people what to do. The most bizarre one I saw was in a shower cubicle: instructions on how to have a shower.
• The train system in Japan is a bit complicated. There are lots of companies with different fares, but after a few days you’ll get the hang of it.
• You can’t pay by card everywhere, so carry cash.
• Tattoos are a problem.

Why are tattoos a problem in Japan, and what does it mean for tourists?

In Japan, tattoos are associated with the criminal underworld, members of the yakuza and other gangs. That’s why tattoos are often taboo in public and can draw disapproval. Some public places, such as public hot spring baths (onsen) and some beaches, may refuse entry to people with tattoos because of these associations.

If you’re going to bathe in an onsen, check in advance whether they’ll let you in with your ink. Silly me, I booked a spa hotel in Tokyo and only then saw on its website that people with tattoos weren’t welcome. Oh well. Different country, different customs. It took a fair bit of the shine off my first visit to Japan.

Visiting Japan for the first time: a sample itinerary, what to see and where to go

Japan is huge, and unless you want to spend two months here, you probably won’t see all of it on your first trip. This is the itinerary I chose for mine. As I said above, it’s an itinerary for a first visit to Japan, a way to get to know the country. You can’t see everything in one go, but if you’re coming for the first time like me, I’d recommend following it.

1. Visiting Tokyo: what to see
2. Takaragawa Onsen, a hot spring not far from Tokyo
3. Hakone as a day trip from Tokyo
4. Visiting Kyoto (and Osaka): what to see
5. Visiting Hiroshima: what to see

@milan_bezmapy+249,000 followers

Follow me on Instagram

Follow

A 10-day itinerary for your first trip to Japan

1. Arrive in Tokyo and transfer to Hakone
2. A full day in Hakone
3. A full day in Hakone (you could cut Hakone by a day; I stayed longer to get over the jet lag)
4. Transfer to Takaragawa Onsen and an evening at the onsen
5. Transfer to Kyoto, evening in Kyoto
6. A full day in Kyoto
7. Day trip to Hiroshima, then on to Tokyo in the evening (instead of Hiroshima you could try Osaka, for example)
8. A full day in Tokyo
9. A full day in Tokyo
10. Morning in Tokyo, flight home in the afternoon

Visiting Tokyo: 10 things to see in Tokyo

Tokyo won me over. I’d recommend at least two full days for it, but I’d go for three, so you’re not rushing and have time to linger in cafés. Why? All my life I’d thought my favourite city to visit was New York. But Tokyo is like a better version of New York: cleaner and cheaper. Here’s my list of what I recommend seeing in Tokyo.

Where to stay in Tokyo

Tokyo is one of the world’s largest cities, with more than 33 million people. For first-timers, I think the best areas to stay are Shibuya or Shinjuku. They’re very well connected by metro and close to all the sights I mention. I stayed at an APA hotel, and many hotels in the chain have a spa and onsen baths. There are about a trillion of them in Tokyo.

A word of warning: because of my tattoos, I wasn’t allowed into the spa. I explain earlier in the article why tattoos are such a big deal in Japan.

1. Meiji Jingu
2. Mori Art Museum
3. Tokyo Imperial Palace
4. Tokyo Skytree observation deck
5. Tokyo Tower
6. Takeshita Street, kawaii culture and Totti Candy Factory
7. Shibuya Crossing
8. Senso-ji Temple
9. Odaiba skywalk
10. Ueno Park and zoo

Meiji Jingu is my first stop in Tokyo, and at first sight I can see how organised, clean and green this city is. How is that possible when it’s so big and so many people live here? Everything runs on time and like clockwork, and I worked out the secret of their success: the Japanese mindset, politeness and consideration for others. When you come to Tokyo, you’ll see what I mean. This is exactly what will surprise you on your first visit to Japan.

Meiji Jingu is an important Shinto shrine, built in honour of Emperor Meiji and his wife, Empress Shoken. Construction began in 1915 and finished in 1920, six years after the Empress’s death. The shrine was destroyed in the Second World War and later rebuilt. Its architecture follows the traditional Shinto style, with cedar wood and bronze giving it an elegant look.

Meiji Jingu is surrounded by a dense forest of more than 100,000 trees, donated from all over Japan and the world.

Kawaii: the culture of cuteness and childlike charm

I’d recommend combining a visit to Meiji Jingu with the famous Takeshita Street, known above all for kawaii culture. Kawaii is the Japanese word for cuteness and an important part of Japanese culture. The concept covers an aesthetic that emphasises sweetness, innocence and childlike appeal. Kawaii shows up in fashion, pop culture and design, and even in business and public services.

Many Japanese products, such as toys, clothes and even food, are designed with the kawaii aesthetic in mind. Famous characters such as Hello Kitty and Pikachu are examples of this culture. Kawaii also shapes behaviour, with an emphasis on gentleness, politeness and a childlike manner.

This culture not only shapes Japanese society but is also gaining popularity around the world. On Takeshita Street you’ll find Totti Candy Factory, which makes the biggest candyfloss I’ve ever seen.

• Tip from Milan When you’re at Meiji Jingu, I recommend the matcha café The Matcha Tokyo, which is close by and has the best matcha drinks I’ve ever had. It’s a chain, so you may come across it in other parts of Tokyo too.
• TIP 2: Try Totti Candy Factory, right on Takeshita Street, if you fancy candyfloss. I’ve never seen a bigger one.

I visited the Mori Art Museum for its lovely view of the city. It’s worth a stop if you like modern art, and the collection comes from all over the world. There’s also a café and a restaurant at the top, and I’d recommend the combined ticket for the gallery and the observation deck.

One thing I definitely wouldn’t skip in Tokyo is the Tokyo Imperial Palace and its garden. Make sure you know where the entrance is before you go, and don’t walk round it blindly like I did: the whole Imperial Palace is surrounded by a moat. Personally, I was more taken with the park and garden next to it. It’s almost unbelievable how much greenery this city has: parks that stay calm and quiet even though you’re in the middle of one of the largest cities in the world. Hats off.

The best view of Tokyo: the 634-metre Skytree

The Skytree observation deck won me over. I thought that from the top of Skytree, at 634 m the tallest non-residential building in Tokyo, I’d see where the city ends. I didn’t. Skytree is a great place if you want a bird’s-eye view of Japan’s capital and time to really enjoy it.

I chose sunset, and although a storm rolled in just before and I mostly saw clouds, at least I can say I watched a storm and lightning from above. I’d recommend booking your Skytree tickets online in advance, so at least you know they won’t be sold out that day. When I was there, they had a slightly silly system: you had to collect online tickets from a kiosk, which completely defeated the point of ‘skip the line’. According to the official website, with an online ticket you now just show the QR code on your phone at the entrance.

• Tip from Milan This is the only official ticket website.

Another viewpoint is Tokyo Tower, a broadcasting tower that I like mostly at night for its distinctive red lighting. And no, it isn’t a copy of the Eiffel Tower, even if it may look like one at first glance. But say ‘Tokyo’ and everyone pictures Shibuya Crossing, the famous pedestrian crossing. It’s probably the most photographed place in Tokyo, and at peak times up to 2,500 people cross it every minute.

The best view is from the SHIBUYA SKY bar, but book your tickets in advance. A drink is included in the price. Ideally book as soon as you buy your flight: it tends to be hopelessly sold out, and I didn’t get in.

As an alternative I found the Starbucks upstairs, right above the crossing. I also found a good article with more tips on where to get the best view of Shibuya Crossing; have a read.

• Tip from Milan A short walk from Shibuya Crossing is the best ramen restaurant I’ve ever been to. It’s called Usagi. Be ready to queue, and it’s cash only. You order from a positively prehistoric ticket machine, and they make sure to remind you that you have just 30 minutes to eat. I went for their signature dish, but I should have had the Tan Tan ramen: it looked perfect.

Senso-ji is probably the best-known temple in Tokyo, but hand on heart, it didn’t strike me as any different from all the others I saw in Japan. If you’re only going to visit one, though, it should probably be this one, although it had the biggest crowds. It’s the oldest Buddhist temple in Tokyo, founded in 645. Your first visit to Japan will mean an awful lot of temples in a single day.

The temple’s best-known sight is Kaminarimon (the Thunder Gate). From there the Nakamise shopping street leads to the main hall, lined with stalls selling traditional souvenirs and snacks. I had my fortune told here: apparently I have no luck at all. Not far away is the lovely Ueno Park with its zoo.

If you’re looking for a bit of New York, I’d recommend an evening walk in the Odaiba district. You’ll find scenery very much like New York, including a Statue of Liberty. It isn’t a knock-off, though: it was a gift celebrating relations between Japan and France. Odaiba also has a beach and lots of restaurants with views of the bay.

Takaragawa Onsen, a hot spring not far from Tokyo

Takaragawa Onsen is one of the onsen that let you in even if you have tattoos. It’s one of the best-known onsen in the Tokyo area, deep in the Japanese countryside. I booked it on Booking. They offer half board only (breakfast and dinner), but in the middle of the forest there’s nowhere else to eat anyway.

The highlight for me is their Japanese dinner experience, which is included in the price. But how do you get here? Take the shinkansen from Tokyo to Jomo-Kogen, where a free hotel shuttle bus runs twice a day. You just need to write to the hotel and let them know you’d like to use it.

They have an outdoor hot spring bath among the trees, plus some indoor ones. I never tried the indoor baths, because the outdoor ones are just too good. You can also come just for a bath without staying the night. I’d recommend spending one night here; two would be too long for me, as it really is in the middle of nowhere.

Hakone as a day trip from Tokyo

Hakone is a popular escape into nature for people from Tokyo (although I don’t know why they need one, since Tokyo is one big park). Hakone lies about 100 km south-west of the city.

It’s known for its onsen, views of Mount Fuji, Lake Ashi and historic sights such as Hakone Shrine and Hakone Sekisho (the old checkpoint). Hakone is also part of Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park and offers plenty of sightseeing and outdoor activities, including cruises on the lake, cable car rides and museums such as the Hakone Open-Air Museum. Don’t miss these:

1. Breakfast at Bakery & Table Hakone
2. Hakone Shrine and the Heiwa Torii
3. A cruise on Lake Ashi
4. Hakone Geo Museum, with black eggs and black ice cream to taste
5. Hakone Checkpoint and the Amazake Tea House in the forest

A few days before your trip, buy the Hakone Freepass for unlimited public transport and discounts at some attractions. It’s valid for two or three consecutive days, and in 2026 you can also buy it on the day of travel at Odakyu stations or online. Start the day at the bakery: breakfast at Bakery & Table Hakone, then a walk to the famous red Heiwa Torii gate and Hakone Shrine. I really enjoyed the pirate ship cruise across Lake Ashi to the Owakudani ropeway, which takes you up to the Hakone Geo Museum.

The Hakone Geo Museum focuses on the geology and volcanic activity of the Hakone area. It’s close to the ropeway, which leads to an active geothermal area with hot springs and fumaroles. Try a black egg here (only the shell is black) and black charcoal ice cream. Bring cash.

I really enjoyed visiting Hakone Checkpoint, where officials once checked people travelling between Kyoto and Tokyo (then called Edo). I recommend walking through the forest along the old stone-paved road to the Amazake Tea House. Your first visit to Japan will also be about tasting the local food.

Visiting Kyoto (and Osaka): what to see

Kyoto and Osaka are cities you shouldn’t miss. I skipped Osaka and went to Hiroshima instead, but next time I’m in Japan, Osaka is on the list. The Suica card works on public transport in Kyoto. If you don’t have one, you can buy a one-day public transport pass at a kiosk. These are the places I’d visit in Kyoto:

1. The Gion district, geisha and maiko
2. Nijo Castle and the Kyoto Imperial Palace
3. Kyoto National Museum
4. Heian Jingu and its garden (separate ticket)
5. Chion-in Temple
6. Teramachi market
7. Fushimi Inari Taisha
8. The bamboo forest
9. The restaurant alley

Take a stroll through the little Gion district, known for its geisha and maiko (apprentice geisha). A geisha is a hostess whose job is to keep the company in good spirits. In this district you can see one of their performances or buy a kimono, but you aren’t allowed to take photos here.

Where you can take photos is Nijo Castle, one of Kyoto’s main attractions. As you walk through it, listen to the floorboards squeak: it’s deliberate, so the owners would know if anyone was walking around such a huge house. Take in the gardens next to it as well, and the nearby Kyoto Imperial Palace. Just make an early start: they close early.

If you like art, the Kyoto National Museum is an easy stop. I had lunch at its restaurant and saw the exhibition while I was there, as it was on my way to the Heian Jingu shrine and its garden. I only rushed through the shrine, but do go into the garden, even though you pay extra for it. Those ponds with koi carp and little bridges won me over.

Japanese gardens are all about water and stone, which often symbolise particular mountains and rivers. If I had to recommend just one of Kyoto’s many temples, though, it would be Chion-in. Entry is free, and the whole complex took my breath away. You probably know Fushimi Inari Taisha from photos: it’s the famous path lined with red gates. The bamboo forest is famous too. No first visit to Japan is complete without bamboo and a matcha latte.

Where to go in Kyoto for traditional sushi, good coffee and souvenirs

From there, carry on along Shirakawa Lane to the restaurant alley (I never managed to find out its name, but the Kappa Sushi restaurant is on it). Shirakawa Lane is a charming little street with cherry trees (and a great tiny café, Black Cat Coffee); with luck, you’ll see them in blossom in spring.

At Kappa Sushi they make the sushi right in front of you, but you’ll have to queue for a while if you haven’t booked. For street food, head to Teramachi market, a covered shopping street with all kinds of food and souvenirs.

Visiting Hiroshima and the atomic bomb memorial

We all know Hiroshima: along with Nagasaki, it’s where the USA dropped an atomic bomb in 1945 to end the Second World War. You can easily do it as a day trip from Kyoto by shinkansen. I wouldn’t stay the night here either: it’s a city for one day, but it’s definitely worth a visit. Here’s what I saw:

1. Shukkeien garden and the ginkgo tree that survived the atomic blast
2. Hiroshima Castle
3. The memorial to the atomic bomb victims and the A-Bomb Dome
4. The Peace Memorial Museum
5. Nagataya restaurant

Shukkeien is a garden where you can see a ginkgo tree that survived the atomic blast. To this day its bark is scorched on one side and the trunk is bent from the explosion. It has become a symbol of peace, and its seeds have been sent out and planted all over the world to spread peace.

I’d also recommend visiting Hiroshima Castle on your way to the atomic bomb memorial and the famous dome, one of the few buildings that didn’t collapse in the blast. It was designed by the Czech architect Jan Letzel. The castle’s main keep has been closed to the public since March 2026, but the castle park is free to enter. What interested me most, though, was the museum about atomic bombs and the danger they pose to humanity.

Admission in 2026 is only ¥200, about €1, and for me it was a very powerful experience. In the museum, look for the original wall from a local bank showing the shadows of people from that fateful morning when the bomb fell on Hiroshima. They were vaporised, and only their shadows remained. Your first visit to Japan should include this piece of history too.

What struck me was how many school trips I saw here. I counted more Japanese schoolchildren than adults. They had come to have their photo taken at the place where the USA dropped an atomic bomb in 1945, ending the Second World War. But at what cost?

I like how Japan puts an emphasis on educating the next generation and makes sure its children know their history. The idea is that they learn from it and understand what ignorance, war and modern technology can do when they aren’t used wisely. They do everything they can so that their nation doesn’t go around claiming the earth is flat and embarrassing itself in front of the world.

• Tip from Milan At Nagataya restaurant they make perfect okonomiyaki. Okonomiyaki is a Japanese pancake or savoury flatbread made from a batter of flour, water, eggs and cabbage, with various ingredients added, such as seafood, meat or vegetables. I think one whole pancake between two of you will be plenty.

It’s cooked on a hotplate and served with sauces, mayonnaise, katsuobushi (shaved dried fish) and aonori (dried seaweed). There are various regional versions, and the best known come from Osaka and Hiroshima. There’s no residual radiation in Hiroshima today, and it’s safe to visit.

Is Japan worth visiting? My verdict

Yes. Even though I was never keen to come here, I’m glad I made the trip to Japan. I’m sitting on the plane from Tokyo, thinking about the last few days. Japan is a world of its own, not the typical Asia I knew. For me it’s a controversial country in many ways, but I don’t travel to judge, I travel to learn.

What I’m taking home from Japan: I’ll say thank you more often, even for ordinary things. I’ll appreciate every single comment, like, share and read of my blog a little more. Because it’s you, my readers, and your attention that give me my job. I’ll eat more fermented vegetables, turn my nose up less at raw fish and spend more time in nature. My first visit to Japan was a 10 out of 10.

Happy travels!