Visiting South Bohemia: where to go beyond Český Krumlov

South Bohemia (Jižní Čechy) is far more than Český Krumlov, and I spent a week here. My picks are České Budějovice, Hluboká Castle and Kratochvíle Chateau, the Libín lookout tower near Prachatice, and Lipno with its Treetop Walkway. Car sharing is enough to get around, but carry some cash too.

Quick factsby Milan Bez Mapy

How long

I spent a week travelling around the region, and Český Krumlov was just one of the stops

Getting around without a car

I arrived by bus and used GoDrive car sharing in České Budějovice; you unlock the car with your phone

Where I stayed

Pivovar Prachatice in Prachatice, a brewery with its own restaurant in the town centre

Food

Masné krámy restaurant in Budějovice, classic Czech cooking in a historic building

Lipno

I took the cable car up to the Treetop Walkway (Stezka korunami stromů) and came down on the adrenaline slide

Watch out

in Český Krumlov I came across a place that only took cash

Visiting South Bohemia isn’t just about Český Krumlov. I saw that for myself only recently, when I spent a week travelling around this beautiful region. In this article I’ve gathered my tips, what I learned along the way and the practical advice that will come in handy on your own trip to South Bohemia. If you ask me, we Slovaks should head over to Czechia more often.

Tip from Milan I’d recommend booking your accommodation as early as you can, because rooms in a good location at a fair price go first. Here you’ll find accommodation offers in the area valid today.

Things to do in South Bohemia: Milan Bez Mapy’s picks

Getting around: GoDrive car sharing instead of car hire

If you’re planning a trip to České Budějovice, I’d recommend the modern car-sharing system run through the GoDrive app. I tried it myself, and it’s an easy, flexible way to get around the city and the surrounding area without the hassle of your own car. A trip to South Bohemia can be done entirely without one.

• Tip from Milan All you need is the app. You book a car in one of the marked zones, then unlock and lock it straight from your phone. You don’t need a key, but if you prefer the old-fashioned way, there’s one in the car as well.

It was the ideal choice for me, because I’d arrived by bus and didn’t want to deal with a traditional car hire company or drive my own car.

What to see in České Budějovice

České Budějovice is one of the most beautiful historic towns in South Bohemia. It combines colourful architecture, a long history and a relaxed atmosphere by the Vltava. If you’re planning a visit, here are the places and experiences in České Budějovice that I think you shouldn’t miss. I tried them all myself.

České Budějovice was a royal town, and its privileges brought it long-term growth and a steady income. That’s why you’ll see colourful burghers’ houses and grand buildings that give the town its distinctive character. The sights most worth visiting include:

1. The Black Tower (Černá věž): the town’s best-known landmark, built in the 16th century. It takes its name from a fire that left dark marks on its walls. The climb to the top rewards you with a panoramic view over the whole historic centre and the surrounding area.
2. The Town Hall: originally a 16th-century Renaissance building, remodelled in Baroque style between 1727 and 1730. It’s known for its architecture, the original statue of Samson, the gargoyles from the fountain, the town treasures and the view from the roof, where they keep their own beehive and make honey.
3. Panská Street: a walk along this street takes you past handsome burghers’ houses and gives you a real feel for the old South Bohemian capital.
4. Bludný kámen (the ‘stray stone’): in the main square, look out for this small round stone with a carved cross, a remnant of the original paving. Local legend has it that executions were once carried out here, which lends the spot an air of mystery and a sense of history.
5. The Piarist Garden: a quiet, green spot by the Dominican Monastery, ideal for a short coffee break or a rest in pleasant surroundings.

In České Budějovice, don’t miss the Black Tower, one of the town’s best-known landmarks. It’s named after a fire that left dark marks on its walls, and you can climb to the top for a panoramic view over the whole historic centre. A trip to South Bohemia comes with plenty of views like this.

The Town Hall is close by, worth seeing not only for its architecture but also for the view from the roof. Carry on along Panská Street, one of the prettiest in town, lined with historic burghers’ houses and full of the atmosphere of the old South Bohemian capital.

In the main square, look out for Bludný kámen, a small round stone with a carved cross. It’s a remnant of the original paving, and according to historical records, executions once took place on this spot. For a quiet break I recommend the Piarist Garden by the Dominican Monastery, a peaceful green space with cafés and flower displays, ideal for a short coffee stop.

To round off the day, I’d go for a relaxed stroll along the Vltava or simply sit by the river for a while. You’ll spot stylish houseboats and plenty of activity on the water. It all gives the town a pleasant summer feel and lets you see České Budějovice from a completely different angle.

Where to eat, drink and have coffee in České Budějovice

When it’s time to eat or take a break, my top choice is Masné krámy, a restaurant in the old meat market that serves classic Czech food in the pleasant setting of a historic building.

• Tip from Milan If you fancy a cocktail or a good drink, head to the gin bar on Panská Street, which has excellent original cocktails and a stylish interior. For coffee and a quiet moment, I recommend the café in the Piarist Garden.

Paddling the Vltava below Hluboká Castle

If you want to combine culture with something more active, try paddling down the Vltava below Hluboká Castle. If you feel like a hike, I recommend heading up to the Baba viewpoint, which has lovely views of the surrounding countryside. Further downstream you can also visit the ruins of Karlův hrádek: you moor at the jetty and continue on foot.

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Visiting Hluboká Castle and Kratochvíle Chateau

On a trip to South Bohemia I’d definitely pair the castle at Hluboká nad Vltavou with the chateau at Kratochvíle. Both stand out for their history as much as for their beauty. At Hluboká, add a visit to the Aleš South Bohemian Gallery (Alšova jihočeská galerie).

Visiting Kratochvíle Chateau

Built between 1583 and 1589 for William of Rosenberg (Vilém z Rožmberka), Kratochvíle is one of the most important examples of the Italian Renaissance in Bohemia. In my view, the chateau is in excellent condition, with architecture accounting for as much as 95% of its total area. It also had a large game park, which at its peak covered about 3,000 hectares and served as a hunting ground.

The chateau was designed as a private retreat for the introverted William, who even had a secret room here to hide in. The interiors are decorated with frescoes of angels with butterfly wings, and at sunset the Golden Hall, with its gilded ceiling, fills with wonderful light reflected off the nearby lake. The grounds are also known for A noc bude mým světlem (‘And the night shall be my light’), a night-time theatre performance with Renaissance music by the light of candles and fire, which in recent years has taken place in late July or early August.

• DID YOU KNOW? According to historical records, an alchemist once worked here, searching for the philosopher’s stone while also making plum brandy (slivovice), a neat mix of the mystical and the practical.

The bridges stand on wooden piles that the water keeps submerged, which stops them from rotting. William chose a discreet spot for the chateau so that he could have his privacy and relax here with a few chosen guests. There are also stories of hunts in the surrounding area, with the game prepared right in the chateau kitchen, a sign of the high standard of living on the estate.

What to see in Prachatice and the hike to the Libín lookout tower

The pretty town of Prachatice has kept its medieval character, with Gothic and Renaissance features. After a walk around the historic centre, take a break in one of the cosy cafés, such as Gallery Café, where I heard some fascinating stories from a local who brings the town’s history to life by comparing old and new photographs. He’d certainly appreciate all my blog posts about Czechia.

I found a very good set lunch at Slámovka, a bistro serving traditional Czech food. Prachatice is a quiet town and an ideal place for a short stay.

The Libín lookout tower

The tower was built in 1883 at the initiative of the Bohemian Forest Tourist Club, and 138 steps take you to the top. The site is named after Crown Prince Rudolf, who visited in 1871. During the Second World War and in the 1950s the tower served military purposes. After years of decay it was restored in 1994. It closed again in autumn 2025 for further repairs and reopened in July 2026. Today it offers sweeping views of the Bohemian Forest (Šumava) and South Bohemia. Beside the tower there’s also a lodge with rooms, which has recently been renovated.

If the weather turns wet or cold, there’s a modern wellness centre with several saunas and a pool in the middle of Prachatice.

• Tip from Milan In Prachatice, I’d start the day at one of the cafés right on the square, with a great breakfast on a terrace overlooking the historic centre. Gallery Café was just round the corner from where I stayed, Pivovar Prachatice, a proper brewery with its own restaurant in the town centre. It was at Gallery Café that I sat next to a man who was born in Prachatice and told me how much he values life here. He re-photographs old historic pictures to compare them with the town as it looks today, which is a great way to bring local history to life.

Visiting Lipno nad Vltavou: a boat trip and the Treetop Walkway

Lipno is a place I’ve grown fond of because it works all year round: in summer there are plenty of water sports and beaches, in winter ski slopes. My favourite attraction is the Treetop Walkway (Stezka korunami stromů), a clean, modern boardwalk at treetop height with superb views. I took the cable car up and came back down on the adrenaline slide.

For families I recommend the nature trail to Oučín, full of fun and facts about history and nature. I even met some sheep there, which kids will love. At the end of the trail you can ride the cable car back in comfort.

A short history of Lipno nad Vltavou

Lipno was founded as early as the 16th century, as a settlement of German colonists. Later it was known mainly for the workers at the local power station. I went for a run there and walked along the cycle path beside the reservoir, which has great views of the surrounding countryside.

Boat trips on the Lipno reservoir are hugely popular, and I booked one for the evening: relaxing on the water to live music is a great way to end the day. For dinner I recommend Molo Restaurant, which serves very good food. If you’re after something quicker, the area is full of stalls selling hot dogs and simple meals. Part of the original town lies flooded beneath the surface of the reservoir.

Evening cruise on Lipno with live music

Every Wednesday during the season you can enjoy something special on the Lipno reservoir: a three-hour evening cruise on a pleasure boat with live music. It’s a chance to combine relaxing on the water with the atmosphere and the music right on deck.

The Svatý Tomáš nature trail and the ruins of Vítkův Hrádek

I set off by bike on the nature trail to the ruins of Vítkův Hrádek, the highest-lying castle in Czechia. The route is well marked and fine for less experienced cyclists too. The hamlet of Svatý Tomáš has a long history, and the ruin itself is a great place to explore. Just like East Moravia, this area has lovely cycle routes.

Svět pod hladinou and wellness in Frymburk

After an active day I treated myself to some time at a wellness hotel in Frymburk, which has an excellent spa with a wide choice of saunas and a water park. It was the perfect end to a demanding but beautiful day in South Bohemia.

Holašovice, a UNESCO World Heritage village

In the morning I moved on to the remarkable little village of Holašovice, which has been on the UNESCO World Heritage List since 1998. This South Bohemian village is exceptional for its collection of folk architecture, above all houses in the South Bohemian Folk Baroque style. They are perfectly preserved and feel like a living open-air museum. Holašovice is known for its large farmsteads with a symmetrical layout and colourful façades decorated with ornaments and stucco, typical of the 18th and 19th centuries.

• Tip from Milan Parking is paid. The car park is just a few metres’ walk from the centre of the village, at this spot.

The village also has the Muzeum života jihočeské vesnice, a museum of South Bohemian village life that shows the everyday life and crafts of the people who lived here in the past. I didn’t visit it this time, though. Holašovice dates back to the Middle Ages, and its growth was tied to farming, which played an important role here right up to the 20th century.

The village has kept its original layout, and today it’s considered a remarkable example of a traditional South Bohemian village, with a close-knit community, its own atmosphere and the Selské slavnosti, a farmers’ festival held in July.

Visiting Český Krumlov

Český Krumlov is a place you really shouldn’t miss if you’re planning a trip around South Bohemia. The town is beautiful and full of history, and its lanes, castle and quiet corners take you straight back in time. It’s one of the best-known and most popular destinations in the region and definitely worth a visit.

Bear in mind, though, that Český Krumlov is extremely popular, especially with visitors from Asia, so the main sights and restaurants are often packed. Personally, I’d say be patient, or book a table in advance and check the opening hours. I’d also advise checking whether a restaurant takes cards, because I once sat down somewhere only to find it was cash only. Better to know beforehand than get an unpleasant surprise.

A walk through the historic centre, a visit to the castle and a view of the town from one of the viewpoints will stay with you for a long time. A trip to South Bohemia deserves a place on your travel list.

You might also like my article 3 less touristy places in Prague that stole my heart.

Happy travels!