I liked Crete, just as I’ve liked every place I’ve been to in Greece. It’s a big island, so I’d hire a car and split your stay between different areas. Mum and I moved between three hotels. I’d visit the popular spots in the morning or late in the afternoon to avoid the crowds.
- When we went
- With Mum in early May; it was already nearly 30°C, but the sea was still fresh, so we chose the pool
- Where to stay
- In at least three places, in the west, the centre and the east, or you’ll spend hours in the car
- Vai beach
- Winding mountain roads to get there; you pay for all-day parking and for sunbeds; the gazebo up on the rock is worth the climb
- Food
- The family-run taverna Tá Kochília in the fishing village of Mochlos; great ceviche
- Moni Kapsa monastery
- About 45 minutes from Ierapetra; monks live here, so keep your voice down
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What to see in Crete? I keep saying that a trip to Greece is always a good idea. I can’t claim to know the country inside out. So far I’ve only been to the most touristy places, such as Corfu, Mykonos, Delphi, Thessaloniki and Athens. But wherever I’ve set foot in Greece, I’ve liked what I found: friendly people, lots of sun, beaches and great food. Crete was no exception.
I went to Crete with my mum. We mostly explored the east of the island and the places most worth a visit, and we stayed in three hotels along the way. So here’s what to see in Crete, according to Milan Bez Mapy.
Best time to visit Crete for a warm sea and sunshine
I like Crete best with a pleasantly warm sea, long sunny days and no need to pack a jumper. If you want it that way too, the ideal time to go is from May to October. The weather is settled and the sea is warm enough for swimming. There are also slightly fewer tourists than in the peak months of July and August.
Mum and I arrived in early May, when the island is still quiet and free of crowds. Daytime temperatures had already climbed to nearly 30°C, so we made the most of the sun. The sea was still a little fresh, though, so we went for the pool instead. On the whole, Crete’s weather is remarkably reliable. It’s one of the sunniest places in Europe, with more than 300 sunny days a year.
Where to stay in Crete
Unless you just want to lie on the beach all day, I’d move between several places to stay in Crete. The island really is big. If you want to see all of it, I’d stay in at least three places: in the west, the centre and the east.
You might be thinking, ‘Let’s just stay in the middle of the island, then everything will be equally close.’ That’s exactly what I did when I went to the Azores, for example, but it works better on smaller islands. On Crete you’d spend hours stuck in the car for nothing. And that’s not what you want on holiday, is it?
Things to do in Crete: Milan Bez Mapy’s picks for sights and beaches
Crete stretches more than 250 km from west to east, so we moved our base from one area to the next. KTEL intercity buses link the larger towns, but remote beaches and monasteries are hard to reach without a car. I compare hire prices on Discover Cars. If you don’t have a credit card, here’s my guide to hiring a car without a credit card or deposit.
Eastern Crete
Kales, the Venetian fortress in Ierapetra
Ierapetra, the southernmost town in Europe, has a fine Venetian fortress called Kales. It dates from the 13th century and has changed hands between various conquerors over the centuries. Fascinatingly, according to some sources, Napoleon Bonaparte spent a night in the town on his way to Egypt.
Mum and I both enjoyed the walk along the old walls, with views of the sea and the surrounding countryside. I’d check the opening hours on Google first, though, because it isn’t always open. As it happened, we were staying just round the corner, at the Petra Mare hotel.
Toplou and Moni Kapsa monasteries and the Pervolakia Gorge
In the mood for a bit of history and nature? Head to Toplou monastery or Moni Kapsa, 45 minutes from Ierapetra. Tucked away in a mountain valley, Moni Kapsa is not only a place of worship but also a historical treasure. Its history goes back to the 16th century, and several legends are attached to it.
Combine it with the Pervolakia Gorge, a good place for a walk and a look at the countryside around. The story goes that the monastery was built by an ascetic monk who lost his daughter in tragic circumstances.
- Tip from Milan The monastery isn’t always open, but the hours on Google were right when we visited. Monks live here. We didn’t meet anyone, but we saw bread on a windowsill, washing on the line and shoes outside the doors. So keep your voice down: you’re in someone’s home.
Vai beach and its palm grove
If you love natural scenery as much as I do, Vai beach should be on your Crete list. It’s known for the largest palm grove in Europe. Picture white sand, a turquoise sea and thousands of palm trees, a little corner of the tropics. It’s a great place to relax, with a touch of history too: palms grew here in ancient times. The beach also has a café, handy for a cool drink after a lazy hour or two. Just as importantly, its toilets are free.
It’s a beautiful spot, but the drive there follows winding mountain roads. It can be a bit of an adventure, which only makes it more worth it. Mum grumbled all the way about where on earth I was taking her, but the beach won her over. You pay a day rate for parking, and for a sunbed too if you want one. Do climb the rock to the little gazebo as well: it’s a great spot for photos.
Mochlos fishing village
At first glance Mochlos looks like a pretty fishing village, but there’s a long history behind that idyllic picture. The village was once an important trading centre, and today it’s a great place for a walk by the sea. Ancient ruins nearby show how much Mochlos mattered in the past. Stop here for fresh fish and local cooking, and soak up an atmosphere that hasn’t changed for centuries. We stopped here for dinner on the way to our hotel.
- Tip from Milan My pick for a meal is Tá Kochília, a historic family-run taverna that started out as a pottery shop. Their ceviche is excellent.
Boat trip to Chrissi Island
We ran out of time for this one. But to escape Crete itself and enjoy nature at its purest, head out to Chrissi Island. This small island lies a short way off the coast at Ierapetra and makes a good day trip.
Central Crete
Heraklion and the Palace of Knossos
Heraklion, the capital of Crete, mixes seaside bustle with a long history. The best place to see that history is the nearby Palace of Knossos. The palace is regarded as the heart of the Minoan civilisation, a place where myth and reality blur. Perhaps that’s why the story of the Minotaur is said to have been born here.
You’ll find tickets and guided tours of the Palace of Knossos here:
Much of the palace was reconstructed the way the British archaeologist Arthur Evans imagined it. Even so, a visit still casts a spell, provided you’ve put on sun cream. The corridors, frescoes and stone courtyard hint at how advanced this civilisation was long before the birth of Christ. I’d combine Knossos with a stroll round Heraklion, its markets and its seafront. It’s the best way to see what Crete has to offer, from ancient legends to the smell of fresh gyros.
- Tip from Milan Heraklion has loads of great restaurants. For a really good cold brew, though, Mum and I parked ourselves at Frankly cafe, an excellent speciality coffee shop.
Agios Nikolaos
Many people take the small town of Agios Nikolaos for just another fishing village, but there’s far more to it. Fishing boats bob in its pleasant harbour, which is lined with cafés and tavernas straight off a postcard. The whole place is pretty, white and neat. Right in the centre is Lake Voulismeni, which local legend says is bottomless and where goddesses supposedly once bathed. That’s a lie, though. Want to know how I worked it out? It isn’t bottomless, because the water is so clear you can see all the way to the bottom.
Agios Nikolaos has kept the authentic feel of the old fishing settlement. At the same time, it has plenty of stylish bars, restaurants and art. That makes it one of the island’s many pleasant spots, good for relaxing, unhurried walks and dinners at sunset.
Boat trip to Spinalonga
Agios Nikolaos is also the place to catch a boat to the island of Spinalonga. These trips are popular and come in all shapes, from short cruises to full-day outings with lunch and swimming stops. From Agios Nikolaos the crossing takes about one to one and a half hours, from Elounda about 20 to 30 minutes. On the way you can enjoy views of Mirabello Bay, where we were staying. On Spinalonga, take a walk round the historic Venetian fortress and the beaches.
Agiofarago Beach
Agiofarago Beach is one of those places in Crete that you have to earn. You can’t drive there, and there’s no beach bar and no music: just you, nature and silence. The path leads through the gorge of the same name. High rock walls surround you, with the odd tree and a strange, almost hermit-like atmosphere. After about half an hour you reach a small beach of fine sand on the crystal-clear Libyan Sea.
No signal, no distractions. Just water, sun and peace. It’s a perfect place for swimming, snorkelling or simply lying there and forgetting what day it is. If you’re looking for something off the beaten track, Agiofarago delivers: raw, beautiful and real.
Western Crete
What to see in Chania
Chania is one of the most beautiful towns in Crete, where Venetian architecture blends with traces of the Turkish era. The old harbour, with its distinctive white lighthouse, is lovely for an evening stroll or for sitting at a waterside café. The narrow streets around the harbour are full of small boutiques selling local art, jewellery and souvenirs. Don’t miss a bakery stop for traditional dakos (a barley rusk with tomato and cheese) or fresh bread with olive oil.
Life in Chania moves slowly, which suits a slow-holiday vibe, but there’s still plenty to do. One option is the Venetian Firkas fortress at the mouth of the old harbour. It has panoramic views of the harbour and the sea. For something authentic, try the market for seasonal fruit and vegetables, which also sells local olives, cheese and honey.
Parking in the centre tends to be tricky. I’d walk in, or park on the edge of town and enjoy the short stroll. The evenings here are lovely. The lit-up lighthouse and the calm sea are the perfect way to unwind after a day of exploring.
Samaria Gorge
Walking the Samaria Gorge isn’t entirely free: admission has cost €10 since 2025, but it’s money well spent. This 16 km hike through the gorge is a real challenge. Be ready for several hours of effort, especially on the descent over rocky ground. The gorge is narrow and dramatic, and you often feel as if you have nature all to yourself.
The trail leads through dense pine and cedar forests, past steep rock walls and over wooden footbridges. It also passes the remains of long-abandoned villages, which give the place even more charm and an air of mystery. The trail ends in the village of Agia Roumeli, which you can reach only on foot or by boat. There you can cool off in the sea and rest in one of the little tavernas serving fresh fish.
Elafonissi beach
Elafonissi is famous for its unusual pink sand, which really glows on sunny days and creates an atmosphere you won’t forget. The sandy beaches here run into shallow lagoons of crystal-clear water, ideal for a gentle swim and the occasional splash.
Even if you’re not the type to spend a whole day on a beach, Elafonissi makes you slow down. It has a calm you won’t find in many places. In high season the beach gets quite crowded. If you want more space to yourself, come first thing in the morning, while it’s still quiet and the air is cooler. Or come in the early evening, when most of the tourists are leaving.
You can drive there, but parking is limited. The alternative is the KTEL bus from Chania. In season it runs once a day, out in the morning and back in the afternoon.
Balos lagoon
The easiest way to reach Balos lagoon is by boat from the port of Kissamos. It’s the obvious choice if you prefer comfort to hiking. On the way you get views of the Cretan coast. When you arrive, a scene straight out of the Caribbean awaits: turquoise water, white sand and a peaceful atmosphere.
If you do decide to go on foot, expect a dusty track and a short descent. It calls for care and reasonable fitness. Either way, bring plenty of water and sun protection. There are no restaurants and hardly any facilities, so we’d recommend taking your own snacks. Balos repays you with its beauty and the sense that you’ve found an untouched corner of the world.
Seitan Limania
This hidden cove, tucked between narrow rock walls, looks like a scene from an adventure film. The path down to the beach is fairly steep but only takes a few minutes. I’d wear sturdy shoes and take a bit of care. At the bottom a narrow strip of sand winds between high cliffs. The water is so clear that you can see every pebble on the seabed.
The beach has no facilities at all: no kiosks, sunbeds or restaurants. It’s a place for people who want to be fully immersed in nature and enjoy raw beauty undisturbed. In return, you get a peace and privacy that you’ll struggle to find in the busier parts of the island.
Moni Agios Nikolaos
This monastery sits high in the mountains and makes an ideal escape from the bustle of the coast. Unlike the popular tourist sights, it doesn’t draw crowds, so it has kept its authentic atmosphere. The stone walls and the scent of pine create a feeling of deep calm. The wide views of the countryside and the valley below only add to it. Getting to the monastery can be a little more demanding.
Aptera archaeological site
If you’re interested in history but don’t fancy squeezing through the crowds at Knossos, Aptera is a great alternative. The archaeological site spreads over a hill above Souda Bay. As well as the ancient ruins, you get a wonderful view of the sea and the countryside around.
Aptera has the remains of an ancient city, including Roman cisterns, a theatre and various other buildings. They give a clear picture of life thousands of years ago. The site is quiet and free of tourist crowds, which gives it a special atmosphere. It takes you right back into the distant past. If you want to see Crete beyond the mass attractions, Aptera is exactly what you’re looking for.
Falassarna, one of the largest beaches in Crete
Falassarna is one of the largest beaches in Crete, so you’ll always find space here, even in high season. It has a wide strip of fine sand and a gently shelving seabed. That makes it ideal for families and for anyone who likes a carefree swim.
Unlike Balos lagoon, Falassarna is an open beach, exposed to the sea and the waves. If you like a classic seaside setting, this is the one for you. On top of that, the sunsets here are among the most beautiful on the island. It’s worth staying into the evening to watch the colours on the water and the sand.
Practical tips for visiting Crete
Crete is a big island with many different regions, so don’t try to see it all in one go. I’d split your time between several parts of the island, so you can enjoy its different sides without doubling back. Say three or four days in the east around Agios Nikolaos and a few days in the west near Chania. Then perhaps add a day or two in the south around Matala or Plakias.
I’d spread your accommodation across several places. Crete has a good road network, but driving round the island can still take several hours. That’s especially true if you set out to explore the interior and the mountain villages. Changing hotels lets you plan your days better, without needless long drives. You also get to experience different atmospheres: busier seaside towns, quieter villages and the mountains.
Finally, Crete has excellent infrastructure, but at peak times the popular spots can get busy. So I’d plan outings for the morning or later in the day to avoid the tourist crowds.
You might also like my article 5 reasons to visit Greece.
Happy travels!
A Slovak travel blogger who has been getting Slovaks out of their office chairs since 2013. Author of the book Influencer and founder of the Bez Mapy blog. "Bez Mapy" is Slovak for "without a map".
