What to see on São Miguel in the Azores, plus Milan’s itinerary

São Miguel in the Azores is worth it above all for the scenery and the thermal pools. I hadn’t seen such varied nature in a long time. Don’t miss Poça da Dona Beija, Terra Nostra, Caldeira Velha, the hike to Lagoa do Fogo and Sete Cidades. Next time I’d give São Miguel four days and spend the rest of the week on another island.

Quick factsby Milan Bez Mapy

How many days

Four busy days are enough for São Miguel; next time I’d give the rest of the week to another island

Car hire

You can’t do without one; book it when you book your flight, and stop for cows on the road

Where to stay

In Ponta Delgada or the middle of the island; Ribeira Grande, where I stayed, was dead after 7pm

Thermal pools

My favourite was Poça da Dona Beija (I went three times); bring dark swimwear, as the iron-rich water stains

Lagoa do Fogo

An easy hike said to take 4 hours, but I did it in 2; in summer the road up is closed to hire cars

One viewpoint

If you only see one, make it Miradouro da Ponta do Sossego, with its garden above the ocean

What to see in the Azores? When I asked that on my Instagram and Facebook, I got roughly a million tips. I had no idea the Azores were so popular with Slovaks. I was in Madeira a year earlier, so have a look at my article on what to see in Madeira too. This one has my tips for the main island of the Azores, São Miguel.

Tip from Milan I took a lot of inspiration from Chovi’s itinerary (he used to live here), but I didn’t do quite everything he recommends. I picked what appealed to me most and had a great time in the Azores. Despite the weather, which is pretty changeable here.

Things to do on São Miguel in the Azores: Milan Bez Mapy’s picks

How to find cheap flights to the Azores

Well, you’ll rarely find rock-bottom fares to the Azores. I flew TAP Portugal, with a short change in Lisbon, for about €300. Since 29 March 2026 Ryanair no longer flies to the Azores. These days you’ll most likely fly with TAP or Azores Airlines (SATA), changing in Lisbon, for example. Check this before you travel, because flight options change.

SATA Azores Air Pass for flights between the islands

Flights around the Azores are run by the local airline, SATA Air, which offers the Azores Air Pass for good-value fares between the islands.

With this pass you can make three stopovers of more than 24 hours at any airport in the Azores. Or you can make as many stops as you like, as long as no more than 24 hours pass between arrival and departure. The Azores Air Pass is for non-residents of the Azores, in other words for tourists. The downside is that you can only buy it through the call centre or in person at SATA’s shops.

• Tip from Milan SATA has several offers, and I found an article on how to fly between the islands for free. I haven’t checked it myself, so I’m just passing it on. Let me know if it works.

When to go to the Azores, how long to stay and when the hydrangeas bloom

In case you didn’t know, the whole island is covered in hydrangeas. The best time to go to the Azores is spring or summer, when temperatures are pleasant and the weather is settled. The hydrangeas start flowering in spring, mainly in May and June, and peak in summer. So if you want to see them in bloom, go in the summer months, especially from May to August.

How long should you spend in the Azores? That’s the million-dollar question. I spent seven days on São Miguel, and honestly, four busy days would have been enough. I kept a fairly relaxed pace, with time to run, work out and sleep in until ten. You can do everything in this article in four days and then fly to another island for the other three. Or home, of course.

Do I need to hire a car in the Azores, and what about parking?

Yes, you do. I can’t imagine getting around the main island, São Miguel, without a car. The good news is that driving here is very easy and the roads are beautiful and safe. After the trauma of another Portuguese island, Madeira, where nearly every road seems to have a 30% gradient, driving here was a real pleasure.

I hired a tiny Fiat 500 so I’d have no trouble parking and could squeeze it in wherever I liked. Book your car when you buy your flight, so there’s still one left for you. I rented mine from AutAtlantis, right at the airport.

Watch out for cows: farmers routinely move them from farm to farm along the main roads. Then again, for a city person that’s always quite a show, isn’t it? Stop completely so you don’t frighten them. Don’t worry about parking either: I love that I can park pretty much wherever I like. Apart from the capital, where an hour in the centre costs about 60 cents, parking is free almost everywhere.

eSIM for mobile data in the Azores

Even though the Azores belong to Portugal, I bought a data eSIM from Airalo here. That way I didn’t use up the data on my Slovak plan, mainly for navigation. Don’t worry, though: EU roaming applies here.

• Tip from Milan With the code MILAN1877 you get a discount on your first Airalo eSIM. If it helps, here’s my full Airalo review (it’s an app for buying data eSIMs abroad).

Where to stay on São Miguel

Anywhere, really. I found a good deal on a bed and breakfast in Ribeira Grande, but after seven in the evening the town was completely dead. If I went again, I’d definitely stay in the capital.

Tip from Milan If you want easier day trips around the island, stay in the middle of São Miguel. It saves you time on the road and on looking for parking.

If you’d rather not stay in the city centre, at least stay in the central part of the island. That way every side of it is the same drive away. I also suspect it rained a bit more up in the north, where I stayed.

You’ll find trips and tours on São Miguel here:

@milan_bezmapy+249,000 followers

Follow me on Instagram

Follow

São Miguel itinerary: where to go and what to see in the Azores

This whole itinerary is built around a car. From Ponta Delgada you can reach most places within an hour, but buses to the lakes and hot springs run rarely or not at all. If you haven’t got a car yet, I compare rental prices at the airport on Discover Cars. You can also do it without a credit card: see my guide on how to hire a car without a credit card or deposit.

Thermal pools in the Azores: Poça da Dona Beija, Terra Nostra and Caldeira Velha

One thing you’ll do a lot in the Azores is visit thermal pools. They’re literally everywhere, and they’re a good plan for a rainy day. I’d leave valuables in the car, because some pools have no lockers or charge for them.

Bring your own flip-flops and dark swimwear, because the iron-rich water stains everything. I’d also recommend my full article with tips on thermal pools in the Azores.

• Poça da Dona Beija: tickets are sold online here for a set time slot. I’d come both during the day and in the evening.
• Jardim Terra Nostra: tickets are sold at the kiosk by the entrance. I paid €10 back then (2024) and saw the rustiest water of my life. Don’t be put off by the colour; it’s normal. Just don’t drink it, or you’ll get the runs. The thermal pools also come with a lovely garden. In 2026 adult tickets cost €16.
• Caldeira Velha: buy tickets online in advance here. There’s a pretty waterfall with cooler water, then two pools of hot water. Close by is the Salto do Cabrito waterfall, which you can visit on your way back from your soak.

I liked Poça da Dona Beija best of all. I went three times during my week in the Azores: in the morning, at lunchtime and in the evening. The atmosphere is best in the evening, when all those little blue lights come on. Just don’t swallow a mouthful of the water like I did. It has so much iron that I spent the rest of the evening running to the toilet.

Parque Grená, a hot tub in the forest, the fumaroles and Lake Furnas

When I posted a photo of myself in the tub at Parque Grená on Instagram, everyone asked how to get there. It’s simple: you pay for admission, walk to the waterfall and spend the rest of the visit in this tub, which is open to the public. Right next to it are the fumaroles. You can’t bathe in them, but they’re a great place to watch the island’s volcanic activity.

Honestly, this is my favourite part of the island: the town of Furnas, its hot springs and the area around the lake. One day I went for a run around the lake. It’s a beautiful 8 km walk, so give it a go. On the way, don’t miss the ridiculously pretty abandoned chapel, Capela de Nossa Senhora das Vitórias.

View this post on Instagram

The Lagoa do Fogo hike

The Azores are sometimes called the Hawaii of Europe, and there’s something in that. I’m not keen on comparing one country with another, especially when they’re on opposite sides of the planet, but this time I’ll make an exception. I spent a month in Hawaii, and the nature there really won me over. The Azores are similar, just perhaps a little less tropical.

I really enjoyed the hike to Lagoa do Fogo. It’s supposed to take four hours, but by some miracle I did it in two. And I still had time to enjoy all the cows along the way and the view of the lake. You also pass some interesting levadas, a gravity-fed system that carries water from the mountains to the towns. Start the hike here, where you can also park, and do a nice loop through the forest. It’s a very easy hike with nothing crazy, which is just how I like it.

Be aware: in summer the road to Lagoa do Fogo between Caldeira Velha and Casa da Água is closed to hire cars. In 2026 the restriction applied from 1 August to 30 September, from 9am to 8pm. During those hours a shuttle bus took you up for €8. Check the dates for next summer before you travel.

Tip from Milan If you’re looking for good hikes anywhere else in the world, I recommend the AllTrails app, which maps them and sorts them by difficulty.

Tea tasting at Chá Gorreana

Chá Gorreana is the oldest tea plantation on São Miguel, and there’s a second one nearby, Chá Porto Formoso. With a history going back to the 19th century, Gorreana offers everything from traditional green and black teas to special local varieties. Chá Gorreana produces several kinds of tea, including black, green, white-green and various herbal blends. Each has its own character and flavour.

To taste tea properly, it helps to know the right method: how much tea to use, the water temperature and the steeping time. That’s how you get the best flavour and aroma. You can taste the tea here for free, or for a small contribution, though I enjoyed the coffee at the café in town more than the tea.

The internet says: ‘Remember that tea tasting is a social event. Sharing your impressions and discussing them with the other participants can enrich the experience and offer new perspectives.’ I don’t think I’ve ever had a passionate discussion about tea with anyone, but why not give it a go?

Kayaking on Lagoa Azul in Sete Cidades and the Miradouro da Boca do Inferno viewpoint

I like to combine my holidays with sport, and Lagoa Azul by Sete Cidades was the perfect victim. Hire a kayak: a company called Garoupa rents them out here, for €10 an hour at the time of my visit. You only pay at the end, without a receipt, naturally.

Arrange it with them the way I did, through the contact form on their website. I asked them first when the weather would be best, and they picked a day for me with no strong wind, ideal for kayaking. The view of these lakes from Miradouro da Boca do Inferno is unreal. It’s probably the best-known viewpoint on the whole island, so do stop here.

From an information board I learned that Lagoa Azul is 28 metres deep and is basically a volcanic crater. If I’d known it was that deep, I’d probably have worn two life jackets.

The ruins of the Monte Palace Hotel

Do you like urbex? Urbex is short for urban exploration, the hobby of exploring and photographing abandoned buildings, industrial sites or tunnels. The point of urbex is to discover and document places that are abandoned, forgotten or off limits to most people.

The ruins of the Monte Palace Hotel are a perfect urbex find. It was an ultra-luxurious five-star hotel that ended up abandoned. Why? It was too expensive and, apart from luxury, had nothing to offer its guests. In a fairly remote spot, all it had going for it were the views, and fog often spoiled those. The last guest checked out in 1990, and it has been falling apart ever since.

Officially you’re not allowed in, for your own safety, but its roof has the best sunsets, looking out over Lagoa Azul. Stop by: you’ll find the entrance right here. I’m adding this because it took me quite a while to find.

Ponta da Ferraria thermal pools, the Ponta do Escalvado viewpoint and Mosteiros Beach

The west of the island is full of viewpoints, and there are a few pools too. Ponta da Ferraria is a set of thermal pools in the ocean, but you can only swim there at low tide; otherwise the surf is too strong. Hot springs heat the water, which mixes with the seawater. You can relax in pleasantly warm, healing water with a beautiful view of the ocean. You’re swimming in the sea, but in warm water.

On the way, stop at Mosteiros Beach and the Ponta do Escalvado viewpoint too. At sunset it’s something else.

Whale watching in the Azores

Whale watching is a popular activity here, but bad weather cancelled mine. Hopefully you’ll have more luck. I had booked it through this website, and after the cancellation they refunded me.

Miradouro da Ponta do Sossego and the viewpoints nearby

I’ll be honest: by day three I’d had enough of the Azores’ beautiful viewpoints. There are so many that they all started to blur into one. Arrive, get out of the car, take a photo, on to the next. That’s why I don’t give them much space in this article. You’ll find most of them on the map above.

But if I had to pick one that stayed with me, it would definitely be Miradouro da Ponta do Sossego. It’s a viewpoint with a garden, and that mix of ocean views, flowers and a gentle breeze has stuck in my memory. If you only see one viewpoint, make it this one.

There are others nearby, such as Boca da Ribeira, Farol Arnel and Ponta da Madrugada. On the way back I had a great meal at the Sabores da Terra restaurant. I found it completely at random in Povoação, a town I was driving through. I liked it so much that I got out of the car and decided to eat there.

Ermida de Nossa Senhora da Paz church

Ermida de Nossa Senhora da Paz is a historic Catholic church known for its architecture and setting, and probably the best known on the island. It stands on top of a hill with a beautiful view of the surrounding countryside. For locals and visitors alike, it is a place of spiritual comfort and rest.

Ponta Delgada, its botanical gardens and the Arruda pineapple plantation

Leave the Azores without seeing the capital? Ponta Delgada is a port town with a very pleasant historic centre: small, and nice for a stroll and a coffee. What caught my attention? It has two botanical gardens. Well, why not. Take cash with you, because some sights only accept cash.

1. Jardim Botânico José do Canto is a lovely botanical garden. I’d head for the bamboo collection, the pink pavilion and the rose garden.
2. Jardim Botânico António Borges is a garden about 10 minutes’ walk from the first one. I’d come here for brunch at Jardim Natural Food & Coffee. It’s very photogenic and good value: €15 got me so full I was fit to burst. Try their brunch menu and the pancakes.
3. Forte de São Brás: I wanted to visit this fort, but I’d left my cash in the car and had none on me.
4. Õtaka is a sushi restaurant that Chovi recommended to me. I ate well there, but if you want something traditional, he also recommends A Tasca.
5. Gruta do Carvão: since we’re so short of caves in Slovakia, visit this one too if it rains.
6. Arruda Plantação de Ananás, a pineapple plantation: admission is free. Have a look at the greenhouses where they grow pineapples, which replaced the oranges here after a mould wiped them out.

A 7-day Azores itinerary by Milan Bez Mapy

• Day 1: arrival, a soak in Poça da Dona Beija, the volcanic springs at Fumarolas da Lagoa das Furnas, Parque Grená and a walk around Lake Furnas, a stop at Capela de Nossa Senhora das Vitórias
• Day 2: the hike to Lagoa do Fogo, then Ermida de Nossa Senhora da Paz and, if the weather is good, a dip at the Piscinas Naturais da Caloura
• Day 3: kayaking on Lagoa Azul by Sete Cidades, the Miradouro da Boca do Inferno viewpoint, a walk through the ruins of the Monte Palace Hotel and a dip at Termas da Ferraria or Mosteiros Beach, with Miradouro da Ponta do Escalvado on the way
• Day 4: tea tasting at the Fábrica de Chá Gorreana, a soak in the Caldeira Velha hot springs and a stop at the Salto do Cabrito waterfall, dinner at A Tasca in Ponta Delgada
• Day 5: the east of the island, with the Cascata da Ribeira dos Caldeirões waterfalls, Farol do Arnel, Miradouro da Ponta do Sossego, Miradouro da Ponta da Madrugada and, if you still have the energy, Cascata do Salto do Prego, then a late lunch at Sabores da Terra in Povoação
• Day 6: a morning soak at Terra Nostra Garden (it opens at 10.30am), then the capital, Ponta Delgada, with its botanical gardens, the fort, the cave and the pineapples
• Day 7: morning flight out

I really liked the Azores. I hadn’t seen such beautiful nature in a long time, and wherever you turn, there’s something lovely to look at. Another big plus is how many thermal pools there are. What would I change next time? I wouldn’t spend all seven days on one island, but would split them into four full days on São Miguel and three on another island.

If you’re only visiting one island, São Miguel gives you the most of what people love about the Azores. If you want more thermal pools, read my article on thermal pools in the Azores too.

Milan