What to see in Naples, plus a day trip to Pompeii: Milan’s tips

In my view, Naples is definitely worth a visit. It has a bad reputation, but nothing bad happened to me there. I wouldn’t miss the National Archaeological Museum, the historic centre, the Spanish Quarter (Quartieri Spagnoli) with its cult of Maradona, or the view from Castel Sant’Elmo. I’d also plan a day trip to Pompeii, and perhaps a climb up Vesuvius.

Quick factsby Milan Bez Mapy

Airport to the centre

The Alibus for €5, about 20 minutes to the main station; pay the driver by card

Where I stayed

A flat near Piazza Bellini. I’d stay within walking distance of the metro, as the buses don’t run on time

Watch out

The day ticket isn’t valid for 24 hours, only until midnight, so wait until the morning to validate it

How many days

At least two for the city and one more for Pompeii

Castel Sant’Elmo

After 4pm I paid about half price, just when the light is at its best

Pompeii

Circumvesuviana train, 30 to 40 minutes; after 2pm I had the streets almost to myself

What to see in Naples? I’ll admit this city was never on my radar. Why? It doesn’t have a good reputation, and most people who came back from Naples told me once was enough and they saw no reason to return. That’s because it isn’t quite the polished, ‘pretty’ Italy we know from American films.

Naples is rough and, for some, dirty and notorious for crime and theft. My mum visited years ago and was robbed at the airport shortly after landing. That’s exactly why I was in no hurry to go to Naples, until I saw some ridiculously cheap flights.

And you know what? None of that happened to me. In this article you’ll find my tips on what to see in Naples, a city that was once one of the largest in Europe.

Visiting Naples: what to see and what to know before you go

Flights to Naples and getting from the airport to the city centre

One great thing about Naples is that its airport is almost in the city centre. I’m not exaggerating: the bus takes about 20 minutes from the airport to the main railway station.

The Alibus runs to and from the airport and costs €5. You can pay the driver by card, which is a big plus. At the airport the stop is a little further back, behind the taxi rank, but Google Maps shows it in the right place.

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Where to stay in Naples and how to get around

I’d stay in the historic centre, but not just anywhere. I had a lovely flat a short walk from Piazza Bellini, which turned out to be a very sensible choice. Public transport in Naples is a disaster, and the metro is the part that’s really worth using. The buses don’t run on time, so when you’re looking for somewhere to stay, the key is to be within walking distance of a metro station. The metro here is fast, cheap and reliable. I gave the buses a chance a couple of times and regretted it.

You can buy a day ticket, but be careful: it isn’t a 24-hour ticket. It’s only valid until midnight, which I didn’t know. If you want to get the most out of it, wait until the morning to validate it. And please don’t bother with Uber. It’s needlessly overpriced here, and Bolt doesn’t operate in Naples. Google Maps is perfect for planning your routes.

Is Naples safe? Crime, theft and pickpockets

Everyone worries about this, and so did I, because Naples doesn’t have the best reputation. Some of you have sent me stories about being robbed there, and it happened to my mum too. Pickpockets are the most common problem here. If you wear flashy jewellery or dangling necklaces, it’s better to take them off.

• Tip from Milan I’ve written a separate article on what to prepare for before a trip to Naples and what to watch out for.

If you keep to the tourist areas at normal times of day, though, I think you’ll be fine. Use common sense, as you would anywhere else. Nothing happened to me, but that doesn’t mean nothing can happen to you. Naples isn’t quite typical Italy, but then neither was Alghero in Sardinia when I went there a year ago.

Things to do in Naples: Milan Bez Mapy’s picks and how long to stay

Naples isn’t a big city when it comes to sights, but one day isn’t enough to see it all and actually enjoy it. I’d give it at least two days, plus an extra day for Pompeii.

These are the places I think are worth visiting in Naples:

1. The National Archaeological Museum
2. Piazza Vincenzo Bellini, the historic centre and the Basilica of Santa Chiara
3. Via San Gregorio Armeno
4. The Spanish Quarter
5. The underground tunnels at Piazza San Gaetano
6. The view from Castel Sant’Elmo
7. The Lungomare promenade and Castel dell’Ovo
8. The Chiaia district
9. A trip to Pompeii and a climb up Vesuvius

Other tips I didn’t get round to: the beaches of Sorrento, the islands of Ischia and Capri, and the whole Amalfi Coast. At least that gives me a reason to go back.

What to see in Naples: the National Archaeological Museum

In Naples, Pompeii will be ‘bombarding’ you from every direction. It’s Pompeii that draws hundreds of thousands of tourists to the city. Before heading out to the site itself, though, I’d stop at the National Archaeological Museum, because Pompeii laid the foundations for many principles of modern architecture.

What makes the museum special? It has a huge collection of art, paintings and sculptures straight from Pompeii, as well as everyday objects that were rescued. The museum is really big. I paid €20 to get in and spent about two hours inside without seeing anywhere near everything. So I’d decide beforehand what you want to see and head straight for it.

My take? It isn’t the most important stop in Naples, but I really enjoyed the paintings and sculptures. If the weather lets you down and it rains, I’d definitely give it a go. Culture is worth supporting.

Piazza Bellini, the historic centre and the Basilica of Santa Chiara

If you want to see the Naples everyone is afraid of, head to the historic centre. It’s noisy, dirty, crowded and full of typical narrow alleys. But I absolutely loved the chaos: squeezing through the crowds, taking in the noise, watching the street performers and seeing how it all somehow flows, even when at first glance it looks as though it doesn’t. Do keep an eye on your bag, though, as there are lots of pickpockets, and some of them weave through the crowds on mopeds.

Here you’ll find guided tours of Naples and trips to Pompeii:

I’d start exploring the old town in Piazza Vincenzo Bellini, which has several great restaurants. I was staying a short walk away, so I spent a lot of time here. It’s a sort of green oasis in the middle of the chaos. I even have a favourite café here now, although the coffee isn’t exactly its strong point. It’s called Spazio Nea. During the day I’d have an espresso on the steps, in the evening an Aperol, and just watch the world go by.

Close by are the lovely Basilica of Santa Chiara and the famous Spaccanapoli, a street that seems to cut Naples in half. It’s one of the oldest streets in the city, more than 2,000 years old.

• Tip from Milan I wouldn’t just walk straight down it. Turn off into the side alleys and suddenly there’s nobody around except locals hanging out their washing and shouting to each other from one window to the next. Weave your way through them and you’ll gradually reach the next stop: Via San Gregorio Armeno.

Via San Gregorio Armeno and its nativity scenes

To be honest, I’m not sure why this little street gets so much hype, but I went anyway. It’s called Via San Gregorio Armeno, and it’s known for workshops that make nativity scenes in the typical Neapolitan style all year round. The style is called presepe, the traditional craft of making extremely realistic and detailed figurines.

These aren’t the classic nativity scenes you’re used to, though. A presepe often includes well-known politicians, celebrities and footballers, above all Diego Maradona, who is a genuine cult figure in Naples. You’ll find his likeness here in all kinds of funny or absurd scenes. So if you spot Maradona in a nativity scene, don’t panic: it’s no mistake, it’s entirely intentional.

The workshops are open all year, and many are family businesses that have handed the craft down from generation to generation for hundreds of years. You’ll also find Christmas decorations all year round, which strikes me as a pretty good souvenir from Naples. Imagine a bauble on your Christmas tree that reminds you of this city’s chaos every year.

The Spanish Quarter and the cult of Maradona

Before you go to Naples, it helps to understand its complicated history and why the city is the way it is. Naples lies in one of the poorer parts of Italy and was long at odds with the wealthier north of the country.

When Diego Maradona came here to play football and started winning one match after another, he became a symbol of resistance against the north. To the locals he isn’t just a footballer but a legend who gave them something to be proud of. To this day Maradona is revered here almost as a god. For a long time the locals even turned a blind eye to his controversies, including his links to the mafia and his drug problems.

The whole Spanish Quarter is essentially his neighbourhood. There are shops selling shirts with his number, murals, souvenirs and small shrines dedicated to his memory. At the heart of the quarter is a famous mural, and I’d definitely walk over to see it. If you want to see something truly bizarre, stop at Bar Nilo, which reportedly keeps a relic: a strand of Diego Maradona’s hair. Whether that’s true I’ll leave to you, but it says everything about how strong the cult around him has become.

Underground Naples: the tunnels beneath Piazza San Gaetano

Naples is one of the oldest cities in Europe, and people here built not just above ground but below it too. Almost 500 km of passages and tunnels run beneath the city, and many of them have still not been fully explored.

What were they for? First for quarrying building material, later as shelters in wartime and, not least, as a source of drinking water. During the Second World War some of the spaces underground even became makeshift homes, where people lived for months at a time to escape the bombing.

Underground Naples has a sophisticated water system, a network of wells and channels, and many of them are still full of water. Once you’re down there, it feels more like an underground civilisation than a city. I’d book a ticket for a specific time online on the official website and do the tour of underground Naples. For me it was one of the highlights of the whole trip. The main entrance is in Piazza San Gaetano. The city also has catacombs, but I didn’t visit them.

The view from Castel Sant’Elmo

One of the finest views of Naples I saw was from Castel Sant’Elmo. I saved it for last and discovered something by chance. After 4pm I paid roughly half the usual price (prices change, so check them on the official website), which is surprising, because that’s exactly when the best light for photos begins and sunset is getting close.

The castle is huge and perfectly preserved, and once again I could pay by card. It has an unusual star shape, designed to make the city easier to defend and control. From the top you have the whole of Naples at your feet. Vesuvius rises right above the city, and at sunset everything turns shades of orange.

• Tip from Milan You can also get up to the castle by funicular. It’s quick, but it runs underground most of the way, so you won’t see much of the view.

The Lungomare, Castel dell’Ovo and Chiaia

Sadly, I ran out of time for these three places in Naples, but they were on my list and I definitely want to come back for them. Take a walk along the Lungomare promenade to Castel dell’Ovo, and in the evening have a drink in Chiaia. If I’ve read up on it correctly, Chiaia is the complete opposite of the rest of Naples: a bohemian district full of lovely views, elegant streets and places with a pleasant atmosphere. Do let me know if that’s true.

Where to eat good pizza and spaghetti in Naples

When I posted on Instagram that I was in Naples, you flooded me with tips for restaurants and pizzerias. And it’s true: real Italian pizza was born right here. Neapolitan pizza is all about the simple margherita combination of a thin base, good tomato sauce and mozzarella.

• Tip from Milan My advice is simple, though. Wander the streets and sit down wherever takes your fancy. There are so many places that picking one ‘best’ spot doesn’t really make sense. If you see locals sitting somewhere, it’s a good sign the kitchen knows what it’s doing.

One name that comes up a lot is L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele, one of the oldest pizzerias in Naples. 120 Grammi Spaghetti Takeaway is a fun idea too: fresh spaghetti to take away and eat standing up. You won’t see that just anywhere. Do check the opening hours, though: some places open mainly at lunchtime and may be closed in the evening.

Pompeii day trip from Naples and climbing Vesuvius

To be honest, before I found out how much I’d like Naples, I was more excited about Pompeii. I’d set aside a whole day for the trip, or two if you also want to climb Vesuvius. I didn’t have time for Vesuvius, but it’s a fairly easy hike that most people can manage.

How to get from Naples to Pompeii

The easiest way is by train. From Napoli Garibaldi station, the Circumvesuviana line runs right past Vesuvius, and the journey takes about 30 to 40 minutes. The reality, though, is that the trains are often late and crowded, so leave yourself some time to spare and expect a bit of chaos.

The alternative is a regular train towards Salerno, which is more comfortable but more expensive. Ideally, get off at Pompei Scavi station (on the Circumvesuviana towards Sorrento), right by the main entrance, Porta Marina. The Salerno trains, however, stop at Pompei station, which is further from the entrances. Pompeii has several entrances and a daily cap of about 20,000 visitors, which can be a problem, especially in high season. I’d buy a ticket for a specific time in advance on the official website. If you miss your slot, nobody usually makes a fuss: I missed mine because my train was late, and they let me in without any trouble.

When Vesuvius erupted in AD 79, it buried Pompeii in ash, and the whole city was preserved as if frozen in time. Original streets, houses, frescoes and even inscriptions on the walls survive to this day.

What to see in Pompeii and where to find the famous bodies

Let’s be honest: most people come here mainly for those famous ‘bodies’ in contorted poses. They aren’t actually bodies, though, but casts. When Vesuvius erupted, hot ash and gases engulfed the city. People’s bodies were trapped in the ash, which gradually hardened. Over time the bodies themselves decomposed, leaving only hollows.

Archaeologists filled these hollows with plaster, creating realistic casts of the inhabitants’ last moments. That’s why they make such a powerful impression. You can see the exact expressions, the gestures, even how people tried to protect themselves. I’d recommend covering as much of Pompeii as you can, but be warned: the site is huge. If you arrive after 2pm (I managed it more by accident, thanks to a late train), you’ll miss most of the tour groups. I had whole streets almost to myself.

Admittedly, it was March, out of season, but that turned out to be the ideal time for me: fewer people, a better atmosphere and no extreme heat.

To make things easier, here are the key spots:

• The forum, which you really have to see: the heart of the city’s public life. The amphitheatre on the edge of Pompeii, built for 20,000 spectators, is about 140 years older than the Colosseum in Rome.
• One of the museums with casts of the bodies
• A beautiful photo spot overlooking Pompeii and Vesuvius
• The baths of Pompeii, a Roman spa
• Restaurant, café and toilets
• The main square

Is Naples worth visiting? Milan Bez Mapy’s verdict

Definitely. I was surprised myself at how much I enjoyed being here. Maybe next time I’ll give less weight to prejudice and more to my own judgement.

Visit the places I recommend in this article, discover some of your own and enjoy Naples and the area around it. But above all, happy travels!

Milan Bez Mapy